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Presiding Nymph T 
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Presiding Nymph 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hank Armantrout and Mike Mead, 1993
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Presiding Nymph.


After a long, arduous hike, I began to wonder if I had wasted my time and energy. Presiding Nymph did not disappoint. It climbs even better than it looks, and I'm pretty sure that I drooled when I first saw it. Some of the jams are funky, but they are so sweet! Then there are these stretchy stems at the crux that make your pants split! It gets narrow fast, and you start to squeeze a little, but a bomber wrist lock bails you out and deposits you on a sloping ledge. A short crack guards the top. Here, wide hands or narrow fists supplement fantastic foot jams. The rock here is gritty and it exfoliates a steady stream; however, the rock instills more confidence than you would first imagine.


Find a super-obvious right-leaning crack in the center of the Gallant Wall and climb it. Rappel from slings and rappel rings.


A selection of nuts and cams to a #2 camalot should suffice. All of the routes on the Gallant Wall share the same slings and rappel rings on a tree. There is no fixed protection on this route.

Photos of Presiding Nymph Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Quite the bottleneck...
Quite the bottleneck...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stems and jams, oh so sweet...
Stems and jams, oh so sweet...
Rock Climbing Photo: Presiding Nymph is the obvious, right-leaning crac...
BETA PHOTO: Presiding Nymph is the obvious, right-leaning crac...

Comments on Presiding Nymph Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A selection of no nuts and cams from BD .4 to 3 with doubles on #2 and #3 would be more appropriate. It's a handcrack after all... Tape useful.
Helmet for the belayer who will get doused by a shower of choss.
The rap tree is dead, the massive pine tree 20' back on the ledge will force your ropes in a slot and get them stuck, rap off a small solid pine to the right. Beware of the huge dead pine and large pieces of choss ready to be dislodged when you pull the rope.
As grungy as it looks but surprisingly fun.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Jun 9, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This one is totally worth the struggle up to it. I give it 3 stars but as the previous user mentioned, get ready for some grit. I had to clear cobwebs has I climbed, and had to deal with angry flies biting my leg once I ran it out past the spike. Not to mention the shower of choss. I loved the crack, the gritty stemming, and the alpine top out. I struggled a bit because the exfoliating rock at the crux encouraged me to lunge for the jam. Don't become a victim of exfoliation, and work your way through the moves, it's thin but all there. I'd recommend a good amount of webbing for the top out. I used two #1 Camalots, one #2 and a selection of cams from a purple Metolius to a #2 Camalot, Some could probably use two #2's. Expect a alpine feel coming up to do this, if you cannot handle a bit of grit, this one may not be for you.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Jun 22, 2015

If this route was easier to access it would be a classic for sure. Great corner, jams, and hand crack up top. The rock is gritty just because it hasn't seen many ascents. The approach is long, but worth it to check out this route.

The anchors at the top are terrible I would not recommend rapping off of them. Its sun-bleached webbing wrapping around a small dead tree. Very scary.

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