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Premature Exasperation 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Michael Steele and Henry McMahon
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: Conor Mark on Jul 31, 2014

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The small roof just right of JG's chimney. Climb straight up to the tier and good horizontal below the small roof. Straight over this to a thin seam (small nut) in a slab. Up the slab past slopers to big horizontal (3-4in gear).

The Falcon guide lists a second pitch (not in the Steele guide), that looked grungy and overgrown. A better option is to traverse the horizontal left, joining JG at the groove.

Easily top roped by climbing JG's chimney and traversing right, or by scrambling up the weakness 20ft. to the right of the route.


10 ft. right of JG


.5, #3 camalots, #4 nut

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By Conor Mark
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 31, 2014

The nut can be placed before pulling onto the slab and has almost perfect contact on both sides. With an alert belayer I don't think a fall from the slopers would be too bad, but you are making friction moves above a small nut. A cool boulder problem that's a couple notches harder than Dead Man's Curve. I finished up JG to the top, but if I do it again, a faster option would be to skip placing gear in the big horizontal, but traverse it to the right to the ledge, untie, downclimb and scramble up the start to get the nut back.

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