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BETA PHOTO: In this picture the line being climbed is Jean. Pr...
's overlooked sister, which is well worth a burn. Nice crimpy crux with a bit of fun climbing up to it. The route name, like some others, comes from the bus that nearly drove off the hairpin turn.
P1- Same beginning as Jean
. Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. From the main left-facing corner, do a balancy traverse right for about 15 feet under the roof. Crank the roof going up and left using a fantastic set of crimpers. Belay at the ledge above or rap if you so desire.
P2- A good mental challenge at 5.8 PG-R. Climb the short left-facing corner and continue up and slightly left, staying away from the easier climbing on Sixish
. Worth doing at least once.
From the GT ledge, traverse left to the bolted rappel line left of Maria
40 feet right of Maria
and 15 feet right of Sixish
, below the left side of the obvious roof.
Standard rack to 2". Microcams helpful.
By Wes John-Alder
From: Brooklyn, New York
Jun 13, 2016
I got my butt handed to me by this route yesterday. Luckily, there's bomber pro right before the crux where you need it the most. I worked the crux roof 6 or 7 times before the beta clicked and I mustered the strength to pull it. Add an extra "+" to the rating in the guidebook for good measure if you're unsure.
It appears that there are two possible ways to start the traverse to the right. They both have solid protection. I climbed up until I was just under the roof to start the traverse as there were some nice solid ledges and a huge handrail for my feet at 6'1".