REI Community
Big Kahuna Pillar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crossbow Chaos Theory S 
Eldorado Coral Club, The S 
Glug Glug, The S 
May It Serve You Well S 
Notorious BCG S 
Pre-Spice Blow S 
Racing Babies / Lounging Like a Roman S 
Roman at the Games S 
Take This Brother S 
Your Homey Ain't Here Deer S 

Pre-Spice Blow 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,207
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Sep 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
em stemming the top section


This wild ride takes you up the edge of the pillar and into the recess between the pillar and the main wall then back out again onto a huge fin. Start on the face and climb straight up gaining the arete. Do not stem out to the main wall or you will feel like a looser and your belayer will probably take a rock to the head. If you do stem it's 10.c, but don't it's not cleaned for stemming.
Follow bolts weaving around the arete and finish back on the face, long and varied, definitely memorable!


Far side of the pillar towards Matrix


14 bolts (couple longer draws or slings)

Photos of Pre-Spice Blow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: low on the route
low on the route

Comments on Pre-Spice Blow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Sep 17, 2012

Feels more like 5.9 when stemming... but still totally worth doing! Awesome position and great climbing. Right side seemed pretty clean if you pay attention. Good one for the morning shade FCR circuit, along with Euro Trash Girl/Werewolves of London/Crossbow Chaos Theory (among others).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About