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Pre-order the new Yosemite Guidebook!
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Apr 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Yo Gang!

Huge, huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this awesome new guide. Please order today!:

rockclimbyosemite.com

Woot!
Erik Sloan
Yosemitebigwall.com/RockClimbYosemite.com, owner
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 15, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Damien
Damn, downgrade city! The book looks great though. Nice work Erik Shelton Hatfield
Joined Apr 18, 2011
585 points
Apr 15, 2016
Erik, are you going to have an online version (E-Book) available for download? Billcoe
Joined Mar 16, 2006
618 points
Apr 15, 2016
Does it come with instructions for added your very own mid-pitch anchors to classic climbs? Limbing trees in a national park for fun and profit?

Seriously, think twice about rewarding an admitted retrobolter.
Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
25 points
Apr 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Hi Guys!

Thanks for preordering. This has been a massive community effort and I'm so stoked to finally see it coming to print.

Billcoe - This time if you buy the book you get a free app version, made by the climbing app pros at Vertical Life. So updating the book should be easier than ever - and you will have access to all the latest routes, via the app. VL thinks they will have the app finished by early May!



Woot!
Erik
rockclimbyosmite.com
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger cracking in Indian Creek!
Moof wrote:
Does it come with instructions for added your very own mid-pitch anchors to classic climbs? Limbing trees in a national park for fun and profit? Seriously, think twice about rewarding an admitted retrobolter.



Give it a break. Erik Sloan has done so much for the climbing community. What have you done? I can't stand people hating on someone who is actually OUT THERE doing something to develop the sport we love.

Guide books are incredibly important and take a huge amount of effort in order to come to fruition.
Sam Keller
Joined Jun 21, 2013
35 points
Apr 17, 2016
Sam Keller wrote:
Give it a break. Erik Sloan has done so much for the climbing community. What have you done? I can't stand people hating on someone who is actually OUT THERE doing something to develop the sport we love. Guide books are incredibly important and take a huge amount of effort in order to come to fruition.

His response to people asking about new bolts added to the middle of a pitch:

"I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back. "

I have refrained from adding mid pitch anchors on well established climbs. That is what I have done for the community.
Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
25 points
Apr 17, 2016
Sam, we can live in a world where we recognize , even commend an individual for the good they do , and still call them out when they make stupid choices in regards to a resource that we all share . You don't need to have done an equal amount of good things as the individual, to have license to call them out on the dumb things they do .

Eric is a very divisive figure in Yosemite climbing , and it's pretty optimistic to think that people won't continue to speak out on his past , and very recent , actions in Yosemite ...
vincent L.
From Redwood City
Joined Jan 1, 2005
605 points
Apr 17, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Yo Gang!

Thank you so much for your support. This book is a massive community effort - look at how many names are on the front cover (I would have covered the whole front cover with all the names of the contributors, but the designer wouldn't go for it, haha). Folks here in Yosemite are really, really psyched to have a new guidebook resource. The printing costs of this book are substantial, $30k, so please spread the word about this discount opportunity!

Moof and Vincent: Yes climbing ethics are difficult and can suck you into a continual conversation in which you might, or might not, agree with other climbers. For example, a lot of people in the aid climbing community are upset that Tommy Caldwell added bolts mid-pitch to a couple routes on his Dawn Wall route. I don't care at all, and am stoked for Tommy and Kevin and what they accomplished up there. So I would say we are a divided bunch much more than anyone is a divisive figure.

Woot!
Erik
rockclimbyosemite.com
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 18, 2016
Pre-ordered! Can't wait~

Thanks again for all of your hard work Erik
Schuyler Collett
Joined Jan 8, 2015
0 points
Apr 18, 2016
Erik Sloan wrote:
Moof and Vincent: Yes climbing ethics are difficult and can suck you into a continual conversation in which you might, or might not, agree with other climbers.


Adding bolts for a free attempt are in the gray area. Adding mid-pitch aid practice bolts are indefensible. Aggressive removal of tree limbs in a national park without authorization is illegal. What you did to the Great Slab Route with a bolt ladder around 2 whole pitches is ugly and indefensible (and you left tat at the bottom anchor). The aggressive crow bar cleaning of the Pitch 7 mid-way ledge on Mideast Crisis was well beyond what was needed or justified.
Moof
From Portland, OR
Joined Dec 11, 2007
25 points
Apr 18, 2016
Got my order in, always need more books for the shelf and the stoke. Arthur
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 5, 2008
111 points
Apr 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Thanks Gang!

Please keep spreading the word about the preorder discount!

Woot Woot!
Erik
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Bump! Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Thanks to everyone who has preordered!

We're trying to presell a 1,000 of these, so please help us spread the word.

Woot Woot!
Erik Sloan


Rock Climbing Photo: New Yosemite Free Climbing Book!
New Yosemite Free Climbing Book!
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Living the High Life.
"Adding mid-pitch aid practice bolts are indefensible. Aggressive removal of tree limbs in a national park without authorization is illegal. What you did to the Great Slab Route with a bolt ladder around 2 whole pitches is ugly and indefensible (and you left tat at the bottom anchor). The aggressive crow bar cleaning of the Pitch 7 mid-way ledge on Mideast Crisis was well beyond what was needed or justified."

Thought I'd quote this again to break up your pride-less self-promotion Sloan.

Woot Woot!
Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
342 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Hi Novak!

Thanks for the bump.....There are two sides to every story, for sure, but this thread is thankfully about an amazing guidebook that the community has been super stoked to help put together. Now we are just asking people to help with the upfront printing costs by preordering the book.

Woot!
Erik
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
a free climbing guidebook from someone who doesn't do much free climbing and threatens bolt wars, not to mention threatening climbers' access to Yosemite by breaking rules of the park... yeah that's definitely something I'd want to spend my hard earned money on. eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Yo Gang,

Remember there are always two sides to every story. There are some blatantly false statements being made here, but let's just focus on the op-ed: An awesome new Yosemite Guidebook put together by dozens of motivated locals, who are now just trying to raise the upfront printing costs by preselling the book.

Go For It!
Woot!
Erik
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
Erik,

I don't know if you are guilty of retro bolting, but you are definitely guilty of overusing the word(?) "woot." I am interested in your book, but will I find excessive "wooting" in its pages? ;)
C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
781 points
Apr 22, 2016
There are some blatantly false statements being made here,...

Which ones are "blatantly false"?
Retrobolting?
Bolt wars?
Limbing trees?
Something else?
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Hi Marc,

Yes, those accusations are false....but believe what you want. Here in Yosemite everyone is super excited for Spring. There are no acrimonious arguments ringing through the Valley, just jubilant monkey calls and psyched reunions after winters dark night. At night we don't lock horns around the fire - we high five and cheers to our good fortune to be in such an amazing place.

Def guilty of too many woots though, lol, super guilty.

Thanks for the preorders guys. Keep it comin!

Woot!
Erik
Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Living the High Life.
Erik Sloan wrote:
Here in Yosemite everyone is super excited for Spring. There are no acrimonious arguments ringing through the Valley, just jubilant monkey calls and psyched reunions after winters dark night. At night we don't lock horns around the fire - we high five and cheers to our good fortune to be in such an amazing place. Erik


Holy Shit. the most superfluous and evasive answer yet. You've outdone yourself with this one!
Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Joined Aug 22, 2007
342 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik
Thanks Andy! Erik Sloan
Joined Dec 16, 2013
116 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: JT
Erik Sloan wrote:
Hi Marc, Yes, those accusations are false....but believe what you want. Here in Yosemite everyone is super excited for Spring. There are no acrimonious arguments ringing through the Valley, just jubilant monkey calls and psyched reunions after winters dark night. At night we don't lock horns around the fire - we high five and cheers to our good fortune to be in such an amazing place. Def guilty of too many woots though, lol, super guilty. Thanks for the preorders guys. Keep it comin! Woot! Erik



"Woot - it's a helluva drug!"
dhayan
Joined Jan 11, 2010
32 points
Apr 22, 2016
Well, since this thread is already at the top, this is not a bump.

Eric Sloan has demonstrated, over and over again, that he has little concern for historical mores in the climbing community and that he is totally resistant to criticism of his actions.

I won't be buying his guide, and I strongly discourage others from doing so.
Spiny Norman
Joined Nov 6, 2015
0 points


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