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Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Prarie Dog 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1996
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 19, 2001

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the crux

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The third buttress left of Wendell Spire holds routes on both the left and right corners. Prarie Dog runs up the left corner.

Reach for some big-ish jugs on slightly crumbling rock to get established under a small roof/bulge. Pulling the roof/bulge is the crux (has a bolt just out of sight over the bulge!), and it is considerably more powerful than one may anticipate. Throwing for the jug over the roof/bulge works well but feels a bit committing. It goes statically if you pull down the lock-off. Saunter up to the anchor by staying on the arete.

This route is a worthy addition to the Wendell Spire sector and provides a good, pumpy warm up for some of the adjacent tweakers.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 18, 2001

The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected.
By Darrin Stein
From: Vancouver, WA
Dec 7, 2001

Of course the ratings are subjective, but this one is on my top five out at Castlewood. Below the crux: A left foot high in the hueco, right foot underneath on a knob - Left hand to the right of the left foot......grunt and shoot the big knob. Another Tom Hanson classic.
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003

Fun route, too bad its so short. The crux is over before you know it then its just a few more feet of easy moves to the end. Definately easier than it looks.

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