Prairie Squid Wall Rock Climbing
Prairie Squid Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
This wall lies southeast of Moonshine Dome and can easily be seen from the 4WD road on the west side of the Pinnacles. It is the west-facing wall of the formation best known for The Incinerator
(5.12a) on the north end.
It is a short wall with several fun, easy routes and many possibilities for variation. For most of the routes, the most challenging climbing is at the start, followed by easier ground. It is also a good place to learn gear placement as the routes are generally face climbs with great stances and cracks for pro.
In the center of the wall there is a small roof at the top; under the roof are two bolts, ostensibly for TR, but there are no chains or rings attached to the hangers and the routes that reach this anchor are best done by climbing the roof and setting up a gear anchor, not only because a gear anchor is necessary to safely clean the TR but because the roof move is pretty fun! There is a lesser roof to the right that is a bit easier and more stable yet still quite fun.
Prairie Squid Wall can be accessed either by heading up and east from the 4WD road and scrambling past several rows of boulders, or by hiking north from the trail for Pistol Whipped Wall. It is also possible to scramble south from the north parking lot, past the east side of Wilburs Tombstone.
Climbing Season For the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles area.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Prairie Squid Wall
Smoked Squid 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b California
: San Bernardino Mountains
: ... : Prairie Squid Wall
This route follows the thin vertical seam near the right end of the wall. Easy climbing on large plates past several horizontals for gear. Top out and continue to the cracks used for the Calamari anchor. This is a great route for those learning gear placement. Perhaps there is a move at the start that approaches 5.6 but this climb is predominantly 5.2. Walk to the right (south) to descend and turn right at the end of the wall to return to the base....[more] Browse More Classics in California
Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof...
BETA PHOTO: Prairie Squid Wall in the alpenglow.
By Mary Moser
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 10, 2013
My climbing partner and I thought these climbs felt fairly easy for their ratings, but it was a fun wall to enjoy at the end of the day.