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Prairie Squid Wall

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Prairie Squid Wall Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 590
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Forecast:
Tonight

35°
Saturday

54° | 35°
Sunday

56° | 39°
Monday

59° | 43°
Tuesday

62° | 46°
Wednesday

65° | 47°
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Prairie Squid Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

This wall lies southeast of Moonshine Dome and can easily be seen from the 4WD road on the west side of the Pinnacles. It is the west-facing wall of the formation best known for The Incinerator (5.12a) on the north end.

It is a short wall with several fun, easy routes and many possibilities for variation. For most of the routes, the most challenging climbing is at the start, followed by easier ground. It is also a good place to learn gear placement as the routes are generally face climbs with great stances and cracks for pro.

In the center of the wall there is a small roof at the top; under the roof are two bolts, ostensibly for TR, but there are no chains or rings attached to the hangers and the routes that reach this anchor are best done by climbing the roof and setting up a gear anchor, not only because a gear anchor is necessary to safely clean the TR but because the roof move is pretty fun! There is a lesser roof to the right that is a bit easier and more stable yet still quite fun.

Getting There 

Prairie Squid Wall can be accessed either by heading up and east from the 4WD road and scrambling past several rows of boulders, or by hiking north from the trail for Pistol Whipped Wall. It is also possible to scramble south from the north parking lot, past the east side of Wilbur’s Tombstone.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Prairie Squid Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Prairie Squid.  Photo by John Hoffman

Prairie Squid 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  California : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Prairie Squid Wall
This is the most obvious crack on the wall when viewed from afar; left-leaning and in the center of the wall. Face climb straight up to the crack, then follow this up and over the top, passing several bulges. Continue towards Motherlode wall to find a suitable spot for the anchor. Walk to the right (south) to descend and turn right at the end of the wall to return to the base....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Prairie Squid Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof...
Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof...
Rock Climbing Photo: Prairie Squid Wall in the alpenglow.
BETA PHOTO: Prairie Squid Wall in the alpenglow.

Comments on Prairie Squid Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mary Moser
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 10, 2013
My climbing partner and I thought these climbs felt fairly easy for their ratings, but it was a fun wall to enjoy at the end of the day.

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