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Practice Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,857
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Proud Papa, checkin out the view with Savannah.

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This is a friction slab climb that is on the west face of South Gateway Rock nearest the north. Climb up from the south via 3-4th class, and you will see bolts about 70-75' above the ground.


2 bolts anchor most routes in the area. A 0.75 cam and similar sized nuts work in limited spots. There are very few placement possibilities. It is best to toprope this.

Photos of Practice Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Savannah, finishing up the crux of the slab.  Typi...
Savannah, finishing up the crux of the slab. Typi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Savannha starting out on the slab, chalked up to h...
Savannha starting out on the slab, chalked up to h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Tim Menke.
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Tim Menke.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian smears up the practice slab with red and whi...
Brian smears up the practice slab with red and whi...

Comments on Practice Slab Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Nov 13, 2001

Access to the TR setup from the S is 3rd-4th class only because of the convenient steps chopped into the soft sandstone, probably by someone with an alpenstock. Once you get the TR in place, you can climb about anywhere on the slab, choosing your own difficulty from 5.4 to 5.8.
By Matt Robertson
Nov 13, 2001

Those step-chipping bastards with the alpenstocks. We oughtta vow to lynch any bastard seen climbing with an alpenstock.

Where on the Spectrum does "chipping steps with alpenstock" lie?
By Sean O'Dell
Mar 6, 2002

The crux is, in my opinion, getting to the anchor to set up the TR. "Those step chopping bastards" only took care of part of the approach. There's still a semi-dicey 4th class traverse for about 40 feet to the get to anchors once you step off the chopped steps. Not all that technically hard, but definitely in a place where a slip could ruin your weekend. Also, bring a biner or 2 to back up the permanent clips on the cable at the anchors. They're starting to look kind This route really isn't good for much except what its name implies - practice. Doing a few lines on this face on TR will definitely make you more comfortable on the real deal slab routes such as Finger Ramp and Silver Spoon.
By Stewart M. Green
Sep 12, 2007

On Monday, September 10, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and I installed a new anchor for Practice Slab since the existing old one is unsafe. We glued in two 1/2-inch eyebolts and a 1/2-inch Army angle. The existing anchor was left as a back up. Do not thread your rope directly through the eyebolts for top-roping, instead used carabiners and slings or quickdraws to create an equalized anchor from the three pieces. Top-roping directly through the eyebolts wears them out very quickly!
By Michael Lucky
From: Charleston, SC
Jun 4, 2012

I agree on the access for TR it isn't bad, but if you slipped, it would be pretty serious. Other than that, it was a nice climb if you like slabs.
By Patrick Yarbrough
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some guidebooks describe this as "TR 5.1-5.8". Mostly likely through erosion, degradation and normal wear and tear on incredibly soft sandstone, this slab is most definitely more difficult. It is a decent area to rope solo on, but don't expect anything easier than 5.7, at least not in the state it's in currently.
I wouldn't recommend it for newcomers to the sport honestly, for there are better TR areas.

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