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Practice Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Magic 
Left Crack TR 
Lieback T,TR 
Regular Route T,TR 
Thin Crack T,TR 

Practice Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,121'
Location: 40.0017, -105.4133 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,856
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

46° | 29°

53° | 36°

55° | 38°

53° | 38°

57° | 38°

62° | 39°
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BETA PHOTO: Practice Rock, Boulder Canyon

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  • Description 

    A Classic, which the many pin scars prove. Right off the road, and easy top rope access. To get to the summit, hike up the left side, and then up a chimney to the right, or scramble up the right side. The rock is solid, and is south facing enough that in the winter it keeps warm until late in the day.


    A. Dark Magic, C1, 1p, 60', gear.
    B. Left Crack, 8+, 1p, 60', gear.
    C. Thin Crack, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
    D. Regular Route, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
    E. Lieback, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.

    Getting There 

    At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off, directly below Practice Rock. You can't miss it.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 5.5 miles from here

    5 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Practice Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Practice Rock:
    Dark Magic   C2+     Aid, 1 pitch   
    Left Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch   
    Thin Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Lieback   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Regular Route   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Practice Rock

    Featured Route For Practice Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy Hobbs, after only four months of climbing, r...

    Regular Route 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock
    Start in the center of the rock, at the left crack that moves up and joins another from the right about ten feet off the deck. Move up to the tip of the triangle where the two cracks join, and then follow up and left. The crux is halfway up this crack section. Zag a final time and finish. There are some sweet hands jams in a pin-scarred crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Practice Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
    BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

    Comments on Practice Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 8, 2002
    Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the name or rating of the route marked #1 on the photo? If you look carefully, you can see a thin crack(or even seam?) running straight up from the base to the top of #1. Also, I'm fairly new to Boulder Canyon, if a person finds an aid climb which is just impossible to free, can they hammer in copperheads to send it? Should they leave them fixed? I'm always a proponent of clean aid but sometimes a #1 RP just doesn't cut it.
    By D Bueno
    Mar 26, 2002
    We went to take a look at Practice Rock today, but we went past it because it's hard to see as you're driving up the canyon. This might help you from doing the same, zero your Odometer at Bolder Falls and it's between 2 and 3 tenths of a mile further on your right.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Jul 15, 2005
    To reiterate, does anyone have any beta on the climbs labeled #1 and #2 in the topo?

    I TRed #1 yesterday and found the bottom to be easy enough (5.7?) but it got substantially harder about 10' below the anchors. Perhaps traversing right would have made it easier, but my rope was caught in a notch above and wouldn't budge. Interesting times... Anchor-wise, there's an old 1/4" bolt up there and lots of places to put gear. But be careful, some of those blocks are loose and most of them are detached. Long slings would let you sling a tree or some of the farther blocks.

    #2 looks like a huge chimney with a couple of awkward chockstone problems. Could be interesting if you're into that sort of thing. Anchor will involve gear or runners from farther trees and blocks.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 2, 2005
    What is the rock directly across the street from Practice Rock with the start of routes being on top of this terrace about 100 feet up. There is a slick corner that is wicked fun to climb? Any help appreciated.
    By G8rFtBall Dodek
    Sep 25, 2009
    The crag across the street is Bell Buttress. The slick corner is Cosmosis 5.10 (great climb).
    By WadeM
    From: Golden, Co
    Jan 31, 2012
    #2 is a huge chimney. One of my cams dropped down into the middle, so I scrambled up from the bottom. Can't be harder than 5.5.

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