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BETA PHOTO: Pépé Rodriguez 5.13a
Unfortunately, this route stays wet late in the spring, especially if there was heavy snow over the winter.
Even if the start is fairly easy, you should stick-clip the first bolt since the rock is flaky and fragile.
You will encounter the first easy (but hard to figure out) crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. You can either go straight up or veer slightly to the right.
A few easy moves lead you to the 4th bolt. You will then run in to a 5.12b/c bouldery crux. Once you pull this crux, traverse left on a small ledge and take a nice long rest. A couple more easy moves will bring you to an almost no-hands rest. Clip the 8th bolt and continue right away on to the 9th bolt to clip but climb back down to get one last shake.
Think twice before you attack the last section which is only one bolt + anchor but it consists of 20 hand and 20 feet movements on really small features. They are all biting but really small. If you don't make it to the anchor, you can expect a long fall.
It's easier if you use a jug high and left of the anchor to make the final clip.
The last third of this route is like a well-planned dance routine.
Second route from extremity of the cliff.
9 bolts + quick clip anchor