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Grand Teton
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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms  T 
Beyer East Face I T 
Black Ice Couloir T 
Collins-Coombs T 
Collins-Hume T 
Crystal Right T 
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 
East Face Direct T 
East Ridge T 
Emerson Chimney T 
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) 
Gold Face T 
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Jackson-Rickert Crack T 
Lower Exum Ridge T 
North Face Highlight Tour T 
North Face Standard T 
North Ridge T 
North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 
Owen Spalding T 
Perception Traverse T 
Pownall-Gilkey T 
Psudo Emerson Chimney T 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 
Upper Exum Ridge T 
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 
Wittich Crack T 
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: August 1948, Richard Pownall and Art Gilkey
Page Views: 4,982
Submitted By: Taylor Morgan on Aug 7, 2010  with updates from Brian Fraleigh

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the Grand from the Upper Saddle with the...


The Pownall-Gilkey is a less-traveled and more challenging 3-pitch variation/alternative to the crowded Owen-Spalding.

Follow the standard Owen-Spalding approach to the Upper Saddle. Upon reaching the Upper Saddle, traverse right, to the south (Owen-Spalding is to the left).

Pitch 1 (5.8): Upon traversing right, the ledge system gradually steepens and narrows (after approximately 100'). At the end of the ledge system, follow a thin crack in the steep corner. Climb this crack to the top of the block, then on to a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.6): Follow the obvious, easier crack to the wide bench extending across the southwest face of the Grand Teton.

Pitch 3 (3rd/4th): Traverse directly to rejoin the upper portion of the Owen-Spalding or the Exum Ridge.


One set of cams up to 2", stoppers, one 60m rope.

Photos of Pownall-Gilkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Grand Teton: West Face: Summit: Normal Routes
BETA PHOTO: Grand Teton: West Face: Summit: Normal Routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the 2nd pitch (5.8). Some pins dur...
BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the 2nd pitch (5.8). Some pins dur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Buturla and Gineth Soto at the top of the 1st...
BETA PHOTO: Mike Buturla and Gineth Soto at the top of the 1st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking west from ledge system above Upper Saddle....
BETA PHOTO: Looking west from ledge system above Upper Saddle....
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Collins leading first pitch.  Aider placed fo...
BETA PHOTO: Greg Collins leading first pitch. Aider placed fo...

Comments on Pownall-Gilkey Add Comment
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By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 30, 2013

1st Pitch: The 1st "pitch" traverses right from upper saddle (below the base of the west face rappels). This pitch is easy, but very exposed and has a few slabby moves that will make you think when wearing gloves and approach shoes. A few Pins and a bolt. There are some cracks to place gear if you want. This pitch ends on a ledge full of large blocks. About 40m.

2nd Pitch: Climb a short crack in a left facing corner. Slabby at first. Once past this crack, stand on a large ledge with a pin. Then go up the 20ft 5.8 corner with a few pins and a fixed nut. Climb to a ledge with a bolt. Other pro can be placed here to back up the bolt. 35m.

3rd Pitch: Climb straight up. There is a pin sticking out of a crack. Nice, fun pitch with jugs. Past this face, climb up a left leaning slab/wide crack. Finish on a large ledge. 5.6-ish, 35m.

Finish by traversing left - 2nd/3rd class, and connect to the Owen-Spalding or the Upper Exum.

Descent: Do the normal raps back down to the Upper Saddle.
By Gee Double
Jul 1, 2014

Almost all the gear is fixed in summer, dry conditions, I recommend #3 friend for belay out right, w/crux above
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 21, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a good option if other routes are busy. If the webbing is in place on the fixed pins and in good shape it's like a sport climb where you can just clip biners in and go.

It's easy to do this in 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope.

Pitch 1 = Start the traverse about 10 feet left of the bolt that protects the start of the traverse. Climb the traverse, across the boulder strewn ledge and up the corner to the base of the crux. You can belay from a fixed pin backed up by #2 Camalot and a small nut or cam.

Pitch 2 = Climb the crux corner with an abundance of fixed pin that will likely have prodigious lengths of webbing attached, making it easy to clip and pull on, if needed. Continue up the steep face with pin sticking out and up the corner to the large ledge where a gear anchor can be built. #.75-#1 Camalots and/or nuts for belay.

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