Route Guide    Journal    What's New    Partners    Forum        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Space Balls Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beam You Down S 
Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps, The T,S 
Comb the Desert! T,S 
Dink Dink S 
Dot Matrix T,S 
Hail Screwed T,S 
Hyperactive Speed T 
Lonestar S 
Ludicrous Speed T 
Over My Helmet T,S 
Pizza the Hut T,S 
Power Of the Schwartz T,S 
Princess Vespa S 

Power Of the Schwartz 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,896
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A few bolts protect the approach up towards the left-facing dihedral. The balancy moves through the bolts is the crux. Once you gain the crack in the corner, it is a straightforward jam on featured rock until the apex of the crack where a large ledge traverse left leads you to a cruxy move to the ledge with shared anchors for The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps. If you go far left of the large ledge and place gear, you can gain a seam just below the roof and traverse in, and over the ledge to the anchors.


QDs, a single set from #0.3-#2, (2)#3's, nuts.


This is the bolt line 15 feet right of The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps below the obvious dihedral. A single 60 gets you to the broken ledge where you can downclimb.

Comments on Power Of the Schwartz Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 27, 2012

Lots of slings help with rope drag!