Power Milk & Bagels
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Power Milk & Bagels.
This is an outstanding route for the grade range, featuring excellent, sculpted pockets on a beautiful black panel. This gets shade much earlier than its neighbors to the left due to its slight NE aspect.
Make easy but awkward moves straight up to and past the first bolt, avoiding some annoying vegetation, then veer hard right to the second bolt. The climbing improves drastically at this point, with a series of interesting mini-cruxes & long reaches (split by active rests) snaking up the long & sustained wall.
Hike ~5-6 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate a buttress with three routes with red, bed-frame hangers. This is the rightmost of these three routes, climbing the black panel that is the left wall of a tiered-roof dihedral.
8 bolts with red angle-iron hangers, 2 ring bolt anchor.
The left rope is on "Pacman Gomez", the ...
Begin the intricate upper half of Power Milk & Bag...
By T Bauck
Dec 14, 2016
From the 2nd bolt, when you look up, you see the 4th bolt. The 3rd bolt is up and slightly to the left of the 2nd bolt.