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Power Line 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randy Vogel & Bob Dominick, August 1976
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: Locker on Oct 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Rita Shin enjoying a great day in Josh. Photo by ...

A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>


the start is pretty interesting...figure it out... I did it right off the ground no traverse as shown in Randys guide...personally for me it felt a little harder (Off route again most likely at the start...Just how I do things???...) than 5.7... whatever!!!... nice laybacking, solid holds, fun footwork... aiming at the bird doo doo, about 15 feet below it is a flake that is very likely to bust loose the very next time someone touches it... Belayer beware!!! Serious potential danger below!!! You can avoid it by moving left then getting back on route above it. The roof move is what some have said is the "Crux" move... The start was for me. The roof was just plain fun!!!


protects well with nuts and cams in the small to medium range. Build an anchor... walk off...

Photos of Power Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutting straight up near the top (yellow) makes fo...
Cutting straight up near the top (yellow) makes fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Power Line
BETA PHOTO: Power Line

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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 18, 2011

I started down low and climbed straight up. Definitely harder. I had to traverse left to avoid the death flake and ended up in the the whitewash where things turned weird and dirty. Interesting traverse led to a stiff exit move. I didn't much like this route, but my partner said he really enjoyed it.
By Stormeh
Jan 30, 2012

I thought this route was terrible. First off: Lots of bat/bird shit immediately left of the route. Additionally, terrible rock quality means bad pro, and I didn't feel at all comfortable tackling the steeper head wall with a microcam or nut in rotting, dark rock. Instead I cut left to the bolts to finish up on the anchors of those slab routes, which are much better (albeit harder) than Power Line. Bomb. Seriously, pass on this route.
By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Feb 17, 2014

Did the direct start, straight up from the floor (apparently the start of the 10b). Found it enjoyable, with intriguing "reverse-liebacking", if that makes sense. Heading straight up the vertical headwall (to the right of the guano-encrusted corner) made more sense to me, and was fun. Final little dihedral corner took a truck nut, and nice final topout moves to gain the wide ledge above we kinda neat. Fine gear all the way, smooth jams and fun positions..if done straight-on.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 4, 2016

if topping out, the walkoff to climber's right near the bottom involves downclimbing moderate but still fairly steep slab. go have a look beforehand. also, the topside anchor bolts to climber's right atop Functional Analysis have no rap rings
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 16, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this climb from the bottom of the corner, start moves feel more like 5.8 if you don't use the big block behind you.

I went right up the vertical crack before you get to the top of the dihedral (see Sean's photo); this avoids the crappy loose rock and bird droppings. A little steep but fun moves, 5.7+ at most.

Great gear the whole way. Walked off the slab.

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