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Power and Lies Trad Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Furthermore on Apr 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Power and Lies seems too contrived if using the prominent crack left of the bolt line. Therefore, I am adding this as a variation. This crack also makes for a good trad lead by itself. The climb stays promptly left of the bolts.

Climb the obvious crack in the gully left of Power and Lies (some folks use this for Power and Lies). This crack is also right of the large off-width/squeeze chimney. Climb up the crack and join Power and Lies at its last bolt. Clip the bolt, which also conveniently protects with a small cam, and finish to the anchors.


A selected single rack. A #4 BD was helpful but not mandatory.

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By Taketaketaketaketake ....take
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 10, 2016

Did this one as my second ever trad lead. Felt fine for the most part, though I will say that the crack is just a bit dirty, doesn't look like it gets much traffic. This felt much easier than Giant Dihedral, which I also lead the same day, but the gear placements weren't as good.

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