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Powders of Persuasion 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Taras Skibicky and Anne Leibold
Page Views: 3,551
Submitted By: Max Schon on Oct 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Dirty (enjoyable, none the less), cruxy OW on p2. ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is the huge dihedral on the Bridger Jack butte. Pitch 1: easy 5.9 climbing, maybe 80'. Pitch 2: an 80' offwidth pitch with some sand. The gear is solid, though. A detached pillar provides some great stemming. A 5.10+ slot move to an exciting reach finishes the pitch. Pitch 3: The business. A 180' pumper. The pitch starts off with some 3.5 camalot size and goes to mostly hands (1 camalot and 2.5 friend). Although no single move on the pitch is very hard, it is unrelenting and offers no feet except for the crack. There is no fixed anchor at the top of this pitch, but some small gear like green aliens will do the trick. Pitch 4: Several options are here. We went to the left, which was mostly chossy low angle face climbing typical of any route that tops out on the Bridger Jack.

Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.


Some of everything. The third pitch does not have a fixed anchor. Some small stuff, like .3 camalots will do the trick.

Photos of Powders of Persuasion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3
pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2nd pitch of Powders of Persuasion.
The 2nd pitch of Powders of Persuasion.
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting above the long dihedral of Powders of  Per...
Exiting above the long dihedral of Powders of Per...
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch up the long enduro corner of Powders  ...
Third pitch up the long enduro corner of Powders ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the route Powders of Persuasion on the ...
Looking up the route Powders of Persuasion on the ...

Comments on Powders of Persuasion Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 29, 2016
By Max Schon
Oct 28, 2003

We had two #4 Camalots, but one would probably do the trick.
By J. Hickok
May 24, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fairly fun. Nothing spectacular, but an adventurous climb. Doesn't compare to the excellent crack climbing found at the Creek, but worth doing if you are not a snob. Climbed it on 5/23/04. Lots of more moderate climbing. Sandy and a little loose 2nd pitch in the chimney. Loose top out pitch. Fixed pin partway up the long corner of the 3rd pitch. Could be broken up into 2 pitches. Watch the rope in the grooves on 2nd rappel of Wild flower.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2004

We brought (camalots) 2x3.5, 2x4, 1x4.5, and 1x5 as well as the smaller stuff. Perhaps overkill for some but I was happy that we did. Enjoyed the route but the sand (and mud in the chimney) definitely took away from it some - I know its the desert but this route is a direct drain for many dirty ledges up high (and we were probably the first after a sizable rainstorm). The last pitch takes some route finding and was not straightforward. Interesting collection of items on top of the butte.
By Max Schon
Oct 8, 2004

"Interesting collection of items" you say. I take it you found the one we brought up last time (a book of sorts, with a picture?) :) We got a laugh out of it.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Apr 26, 2006

You can rap off this route with one 70m rope (three rappels)- short rap to notch, be careful on 2nd rap (just makes it to ledge-reach down to clip in with long sling), Rap to ground.
By Ben Kiessel
Oct 23, 2006

Bill and I climbed this a year or two ago and thought it was a killer route. I had more fun on this then Rim Shot. The offwidth on pitch 2 was nothing to worry about, I suck at offwidth and thought it was not that bad. There are enough holds and features around to get by without doing many offwidth moves.
By chris Kalous
Mar 8, 2008

Are these people high? All but about 100' of this route blow. Ledgy first pitch, dirty as hell chimney, 100' feet of powdery hand crack (bonus), to a ledgy, loose, traversy garbage pitch. WOW!
By Josh Gross
Apr 7, 2008

I agree this route is vertical dirt! I am not sure if those who like this route where on the same route!
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 8, 2008

I was on route and I do remember some sand and I still thought it was a good route. Maybe you got some of that sand in your pussy? Just joking. It must have just been a great day if the route is really that bad.
By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Apr 29, 2009

There is a correction needed to the beta that you can make the rap down Wildflower with one 70m rope. This is not true, I have a factory 70m Eidelweiss rope and was about 10' short getting from the notch to the anchor midway to the ground. My rope is also older and does not have as much stretch as it used to. You can however reach the ground from the notch with two 70m ropes.
By Scott Bennett
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A good adventure route if you're tired of all that perfect clean jamming at the crags.

The route was just going into the shade when we did it (early afternoon). If you want sun, get up early.

As of 11-09, there was a fixed anchor on the big ledge after P3 (the long corner pitch). There's a new bolt and a fixed stopper, but they're a long ways back (around to the right). I had a 70m rope and was able to reach the anchor, but it looked like a 60m might not have made it.

As for the raps, we made it down with a single 70m. One easy rap to the notch, and then one very short rap (climber's left) to another anchor (I think you could rap all the way from the top of the butte to here, combining the first two raps). One long rap (70m required probably?), then one more to the ground.

Hope this beta helps,
By Kevin DB
Jan 9, 2013

I broke a lot of holds on the second pitch, although the climbing is fairly reasonable for the grade I wasn't so sure that the rock was solid enough to hold any of my gear. It's worth it though to get to the money 60 meter dihedral of the third pitch.
By Tracy Warneke
From: Bozeman, MT
May 29, 2015

At the top of the second pitch there's a death block that is VERY LOOSE. At the end of the pitch there's a thin crack after the OW that continues straight toward the hand crack, and a larger crack that traverses slightly out right from the corner then up. If you're the leader and you continue straight up to the hand crack you may put yourself and your belayer in a sticky situation because the death block is separating the two fixed pins from the hand crack. You should go right following the short traverse out of the corner and then up. You'll get to the fixed pin anchor safely and not risk accidentally yarding on the death block. Have fun and be safe! (We climbed Powders in March 2015)
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really good route. The sand and dirt is excusable for a tower route. The 60 m corner is one of the most sustained pitches for its grade I've ever climbed. Really solid, old-school 10+ for every move. Amazing! The direct top pitch is also an exciting lead on overhung corn flakes with finger crack bulges.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 29, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

The third pitch is spectacular, the rest of the climb is not. Still a great adventure route to do once. On pitches 2 & 4 the protection was a little suspect and the rock was a little chossy, so the route is PG13 in my book.

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