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Powder in the Eyes 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 2,513
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007

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This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!


On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.


Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.

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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 2, 2007

This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days.
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008

Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it.
By Chuck Becker
From: Portland, OR
Jul 27, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome route with perplexing but memorable cruxes. Recommend a long draw pre-placed on the 4th bolt so you can clip before committing to a couple moves getting established above the roof, otherwise you’ll prbly clip it shoulder level when the 3rd bolt looks a mile below you and way off to the side
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jan 15, 2017

A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly.
By Matt Solomon
From: Central Point, OR
Mar 9, 2017
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Awesome line, well worth the effort. The cruxes are stacked atop each other as mentioned and quite engaging.

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