Type: Trad, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Charlie Cundiff 2007
Page Views: 946 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A short chimney offwidth that is surprisingly tricky. The crux is the bouldery start, which is a chimney/offwidth. depending on your climbing style, you will either hate it or love it. Probably you will hate it, as the start cannot be protected without a big cam (#4 camelot?) and it has a poor landing if you don't have pro. Now that you're thoroughly discouraged from trying the route, know that with some creative chimney technique, the start actually feels safe, and that once above the crux, the rest is much easier and protects well.

Location Suggest change

The right of two large cracks on the west side of the dome. This headwall is located almost at the top of the dome and some scrambling is invloved to reach it.

Protection Suggest change

the crux can be completed three ways: 1)A very large piece. 2) A crash-pad and/or spotters. 3) Just send it because it's not as hard as it feels, and you'll get a good stance and pro higher up. The off-width climbing above the crux can be protected with a few large cams, or even smaller stuff as a few horizontals provide additional options.

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