Poultrygeist Area Rock Climbing
Solid heel hooking at the crux.
The routes at the Poultrygeist area tend to be a little more diverse than those on in the Chicken Little Area
, with more pockets, overhangs, some jugs, and some exciting stemming. I thought the routes actually tended to be more fun here, in general. The routes range from low 5.10 to 5.12a.
. Head right from the top of the trail at Chicken Little area, heading along the base of the cliffs until you get past a chossy area of rock to nice stone again.
Walking toward the right from the Chicken Little Area, you will come across two routes in nice rock. It will be an obvious break from the choss. These first two routes are (left to right): Chicken Cha Cha
Cock Star (5.11c)
Continuing right along the path, you will come upon a series of other routes. Again, from left to right, these routes are: Cockwork Orange
(5.10d) Finger Lichen Good
(5.10a) Stunt Cock
(5.12a) Chicken Out
(5.10c) Cock -a-doodle-do
Chicken Fingers (5.10c), Trad Poultrygeist
(5.11a) Chicks with Ricks
(5.10c) Crack L of Cockeyed
(5.9), Trad Cockeyed
(5.10c), See note below Fowl Play
(5.11a), See note below
NOTE: Cockeyed and Fowl Play are both rated incorrectly in Beverly's Jemez Rock, as both are listed as 5.8. The ratings above more correctly represent the difficulties of the climbs and also are the ratings in Rick Bradshaw's online guide
Climbing Season For the Diablo Canyon area.
Weather station 6.9 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Poultrygeist Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Poultrygeist Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Poultrygeist Area:
Chicken Out 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For Poultrygeist Area
Chicken Out 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Poultrygeist Area
This fun climb begins with a short slab that leads to a big-ish roof, and finishes with a so-so dihedral. Begin in a broad corner, passing a seemingly unnecessary bolt to a good stance below the roof. Clip up high and left, then ascend directly over the roof (perhaps just a bit rightwards) on killer-good jugs and maybe a heel-hook.Ascend the arete left of the dihedral for a few bolts before veering right into the ever-steepening dihedral. Dwindling holds and a building pump lead to the anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 24, 2006
A word of caution:
The two far right climbs at the Poultrygeist area, Cockeyed and Fowl Play, are mis-rated in the excellent Jemez Rock & Pecos Area guidebook by Marc Beverly. Both are listed as 5.8 but are considerably more difficult.
Cockeyed is 5.10c and Fowl Play is 5.11a as per the online guide.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2007
I agree about the ratings. I would not consider this guide excellent, but only inaccurate on many occations. Just an opinion and an observation. Thanks for the beta Jason.