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Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Randall Grandstaff/Randy Marsh 1991
Page Views: 368
Submitted By: Xavier Wasiak on Jan 5, 2014

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I was always curious about this route because of the movie Moving Over Stone II. The route is not nearly as difficult as both the Brock and Handren books suggest and is more in line with what Randall rated it in the movie, 5.9.

Pitch 1 - Enjoyable typical RR edge pulling on mostly good rock leads to an old 3/8 bolt and continues up. Find your own way up as holds are plentiful. There is an old 2 bolt (1/4 inch)anchor at about 120 feet that I did not even see. There is also an old 3/8 inch bolt about 8 feet above this that I believe might have been used for rigging during the movie. Just left of this is another bolt that Randall drills and places during the movie that protects some fun face climbing. Above this is a two bolt anchor that appears to be in decent shape. Belay here. 10-, 140 feet.

Pitch 2 - Climb straight up finding your way through the face and many climbing options. You'll eventually end at a two bolt anchor (one 1/4 and one 3/8). The 3/8 appears to be in pretty good shape. Not a great anchor. 9/9+, 110 feet.

Two rappels will get you down the route with two 60's.

Fun to go back and see the movie and Randall climbing and placing the bolts.

Location 

You can find the route as the Handren guide suggests between Corn Flake and the arch on the right of the wall. You will eyeball a bolt 30 to 40 feet up the dark brown wall.

Protection 

I used mostly nuts, small wires and a few cams up to #1 BD CAM. All 3/8 bolts appeared ok but are 22+ years old.


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By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 5, 2014

You can check out footage of this climb at about 29 minutes of the film.

dailymotion.com/video/xm86ru_m...
By Cunning Linguist
Jan 7, 2014

Nice, man! Thought 11 looked like a classic Grandstaff swindle on that one. Will put this one on the anchor replacement schedule.

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