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(2) Brogan Spire
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Barred Reality T,S 
Cave Route T 
Death Of a Raven S 
Pouches S 
Short Sharp Shock S 
Smash the Silence S 
South Buttress T 
Under the Gun S 
Walking on Broken Glass S 
West Face T 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: ferrells on Jan 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Nate Tack pulls on some Pouches

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Start on jugs, semi-jugs, and good crimps. Keep cool for the powerful crux, which comes at roughly mid-height. I had to cut my feet on the throw at the crux - something I rarely have to do for a moderate route at Smith. The finish is a rightward traverse. It looks like it's going to turn sinister at any moment, but just enjoy it, the hardest is behind you.
It's well-protected and is one of those rare Smith moderates that requires a bit of power and dynamism. Combine all this with the fact that it's secluded, requires a beautiful hike, and is set in one of the more pristine areas of Smith.

Pouches is a great route, and suggests to me that much of the west face of Brogan is climbable (at relatively high grades), if anyone wants to put up some new routes. This route will likely end up being the most accessible in the area.


Just downhill from The Optimist, with a little cave underneath. You'll recognize it for the attractive jugs at the start, and because it'll probably have more chalk than anything else around.


Draws - it's overhanging enough to be a bit tricky to clean. It's not impossible for the leader on rappel, but you might consider having a second follow up to clean it.

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