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Potstash 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 18,895
Submitted By: Brendan Leonard on Dec 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (235)
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my friend chris building an anchor on potstash

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Also referred to as Little Thailand. A Fun, well-protected beginner/intermediate lead. Crux is the move after you've clipped the last bolt before the anchor.

    Location 

    100 feet to the right of the Indian Writings sign on Potash Road, just to the left of a sandy-floored chimney (route on the right side of the chimney is Shadowfax).

    Protection 

    5 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor


    Photos of Potstash Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun crux
    Fun crux
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of potstash on Potash Road in Moab, U...
    Near the top of potstash on Potash Road in Moab, U...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Splits for days! Expect a tourist audience (near t...
    Splits for days! Expect a tourist audience (near t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just pulled the crux... Clipping the anchors!
    Just pulled the crux... Clipping the anchors!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Potash fun warm up
    Potash fun warm up
    Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Potstash from across the road. You can g...
    BETA PHOTO: A view of Potstash from across the road. You can g...
    Rock Climbing Photo: It's fun!
    It's fun!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up Potstash
    Halfway up Potstash
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux of Potash
    Crux of Potash
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting off Potash
    Starting off Potash
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good view of the bolt pattern on Potstash.
    Good view of the bolt pattern on Potstash.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The climb is much different from a lot of Wall Str...
    The climb is much different from a lot of Wall Str...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The top part gets a little tricky/awkward.   Photo...
    The top part gets a little tricky/awkward. Photo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Potstash.
    Potstash.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Potstash.
    Leading Potstash.

    Comments on Potstash Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Andy Librande
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 30, 2007

    There is a really fun TR variation on this climb if you start down in the cave to the left of the climb. Some loose rock but a solid variation ; not to mention the swing from the fall in the cave is always exciting.
    By david verderrosa
    From: Boulder,Co.
    Jul 18, 2008

    The first ascentionist was Keith Reynolds..we bolted it back in 1998...little Thailand definetely wasn't the name..something to do with reefer was the name??I forgot though maybe ask Keith..wait it was called Potstash..
    By Ty Meadows
    From: Moab, UT
    Aug 3, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Nice climb! A couple of the bolts, including one at the top anchor, are in need of repair.
    By John Braun
    From: Hendersonville, NC
    Mar 23, 2011

    The last bolt before the chains (the bolt that protects the high crux) is in really bad shape. It's sticking out about a half inch from the rock and the hanger is just rattling around. If that scares you, you might be able to protect that section with a yellow or larger TCU to the right of the bolt.
    By Daniel Slosky
    Nov 12, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This is one of the few 5.9 sport routes at Potash that doesn't turn into a friction climb after 20 feet. It has some thoughtful moves with a crux near the end. Finding a good spot to clip the anchor from isn't easy. All the bolts look fine now.
    By Gavin W
    From: Surrey, BC
    May 6, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Super fun lead with some awkward mantle-y moves that are fun to execute. Definitely the highlight of my trip to Wall Street. Be careful that the rope doesn't get caught on the 2nd bolt as you climb past it; the groove in the rock suggests that this has happened to plenty of people (and will likely contribute to premature rope wear if it happens to you). A quick flip of the rope with some slack will unsnag it and allow it to follow a natural path.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I wasn't a huge fan of this route. It felt uncomfortable more often than not.
    By Conor O
    From: Fort Collins, Colorado
    Jan 3, 2016

    Awesome warm-up route to start the day off right on wall street!
    By John Binger
    From: Moab, UT
    May 7, 2016

    As of about 3 weeks ago the anchor bolts were loose with one of them sticking out about a 1/2" or more. Heads up. I didn't have a wrench or I would've tightened things up a bit.
    By Maddiephil
    May 28, 2016

    Had to bail due to rain and left six quick draws on Potstash. They are orange and silver mad rock quick draws with orange and green tagging. If you have them, please text/call Keegan (802-779-3149). Thanks!

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