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Potrero John

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginnings T 
Cleaning Lady S 
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) S 
Menage a Trois S 
Miccis S 
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) S 
Potrero Traverse 
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) S 
Should I Stay S 
Unknown Route On The Right TR 

Potrero John Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,600'
Location: 34.5806, -119.2606 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,831
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 13, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

52° | 31°
Saturday

62° | 33°
Sunday

70° | 34°
Monday

61° | 23°
Tuesday

52° | 20°
Wednesday

56° | 26°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

A quarter mile further up the road from Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) lies this 80' cliff sporting a handful of quality sport routes. Bring traditional gear if planning on climbing the solitary trad line, Beginnings (5.5). Also, some supplementary gear (nuts, TCUs) is recommended if leading Menage a Trois (5.10b). A single rope is sufficient to get off all routes.

Historical Background 

Information care of the late Reese Martin: "In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet."

Getting There 

1/4 mile up the road from Sespe's main "Black Wall". Park in a dirt turnout and walk down the hillside, across Sespe Creek. Approach time: 5 minutes.

Topo 

From Tradgirl.com (c)Reese Martin 1997

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Potrero John

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Potrero John:
Beginnings   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad   
Miccis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Cleaning Lady   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   
Should I Go (aka El Potrero)   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Potrero John

Featured Route For Potrero John
Rock Climbing Photo: You can see where the nut placement goes in this p...

Unknown Route On The Right 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Potrero John
Scramble up the obvious gully on the left to set the top rope. Be sure no one is standing below while you do this, way too many loose blocks up there. BE CAREFUL.Start in the corner and climb up about 8' and and step right then up to the obvious larger holds. Climb strait up until you're above the chock stone and can step right onto the chock stone. Traverse right a few feet and climb the short but fun crack to the top.The crux is the first 20 feet until y...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Potrero John Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erica crosses Sespe creek during the high waters o...
Erica crosses Sespe creek during the high waters o...
Rock Climbing Photo: David practices lowering out, on a fixed line at P...
David practices lowering out, on a fixed line at P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Potrero John topo 2
BETA PHOTO: Potrero John topo 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Potrero John topo 1
BETA PHOTO: Potrero John topo 1

Comments on Potrero John Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 16, 2006
This area would see a ton of traffic except that it's a bit too far from town and it's simply overshadowed by its big brother down stream.

Generally, these are very good routes in an idyllic setting. Potrero John is a perfect escape from the Black Wall on busy weekends.
By Michelle Lynn
From: Moab, UT
Jul 22, 2012
We had a little trouble finding this crag. The large pullout on the left (coming from Black Wall) is closest to the Fortress, not Potrero John. If you park here, walk on the road back toward Black Wall a few hundred yards until you're directly under Potrero John, then cross the river. The cliff is shady after 2 pm in the summer.
By Jared Krause
Mar 23, 2016
You can't see it in any of the photos but there are 2 bolts about 20ft above the wall. It's fairly easy to climb around the back and set up a top rope either through the bolts (with rings) on the top, or use those to protect yourself as you navigate the fairly exposed 4th class rock above the wall.