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Potential Trouble Source 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Scott Strong on Sep 1, 2011

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Description 

Start on the overhang and climb the face. The moves on this route are a little gymnastic in nature. The route is named after the flake, it looks good, but like any route at POB, approach with caution.

Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


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By Mark Pell
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As Scott said, this route's roof start is a little bit gymnastic. With a spot from the belayer it is not hard to safely reach the first bolt to get clipped-in. This can also be done in advance by climbing the large cedar tree near the start and reaching across. Or, stick it. Once the rope is in on bolt 1 it is recommended that the belayer move to stand below and right of the start, under the roof, to stay clear of the drop zone until the leader clips bolt 2. Moving over the roof, do not overlook the value of overhead heel hooks in turning the lip. This will take some weight off your arms and give you more time to solve the sequence. Once stood up above the roof, it appears the route climbs left of the bolt line. Actually the holds are a little more positive on the right side of the upper two protection bolts. Don't fear the flake high on the face, just be careful as you pass. It has proven to be quite solid. This route is recommended for roof nuts.

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