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Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
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Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Frank Sanders & Dennis Horning '78
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: This pitch is nothing short of STELLAR. The crack starts very thin and gradually widens to hands. The coolest move is moving past the large roof to your left. Stem your way to a semi hanging belay under the second large roof. Notice the great deal of texture difference between the left and right walls. Mother Nature is SOOOOO wondrous...

P2: Pass the roof on the left, through the off-width section to the column top.

P3: Either traverse right to the Meadows, or finish on "Bailey Direct".

NOTE: Most parties rappel after P1.


The route begins three cracks left of Durrance under the prominent roof.


Stoppers, Camalots to #3.

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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
May 24, 2009

The first pitch offers great movement, but crunchy rock and some munge in the is all too common at the Tower, this is a fine pitch which goes neglected and as a result hasn't cleaned up well. There are two fixed pins down low which seem OK. You can TR this with a single 70m rope if you scramble off the belay ledge a bit (easy).
By CodyE
From: Utah
Aug 17, 2015

Fun climbing. Has a few resident birds deep in the crack up by the pitch 1 anchor. Pitch one was cleaned up in August 2015 and is a great shape, get on it!
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Jul 24, 2016

Not recommended due to the colony of 50+ swallows at the top of first pitch, which is causing most of the inside of the crack to be covered in bird poo. The rocky is pretty flaky as well. First pitch anchor is bomber, looks new.

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