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Potato Chip Route (Regular Route)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 15
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip
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Mandoline, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Chives T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Don't Peel T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Eye of the Potato T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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French Fry T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ground Control T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hypothermia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Idaho Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mountain Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Potato Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Petite Giraffe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poor Man's Wendego T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sour Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treetop Flyer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Scott Woodruff and Dan Hare, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 2,576 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Apr 17, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Although this route is only about 150' long, it is best to split it into three short pitches. The route starts on the west side of the Potato Chip.
P1: Climb a rotten gully up under the north face of the Potato Chip. This pitch is unpleasant but not difficult (class 4). Belay at a tree below an obvious diagonal crack.
P2: Ascend the Spud Nordwand via the diagonal crack! This crack overhangs slightly and varies a lot in width over its 50' length. There is one wide section which fortunately does not last long. The crux is near the top where the crack narrows down to thin hands/fingers. Belay on the west ridge where the crack ends.
P3: Traverse out onto the south face, then head straight up to a belay on top (5.9). This is the only pitch that is not well protected, but I do not remember it being very scary. Alternatively, you can head directly up the west ridge (10a S).
Scramble off to the east (you may want to keep the rope on for a move or two).
P1: Climb a rotten gully up under the north face of the Potato Chip. This pitch is unpleasant but not difficult (class 4). Belay at a tree below an obvious diagonal crack.
P2: Ascend the Spud Nordwand via the diagonal crack! This crack overhangs slightly and varies a lot in width over its 50' length. There is one wide section which fortunately does not last long. The crux is near the top where the crack narrows down to thin hands/fingers. Belay on the west ridge where the crack ends.
P3: Traverse out onto the south face, then head straight up to a belay on top (5.9). This is the only pitch that is not well protected, but I do not remember it being very scary. Alternatively, you can head directly up the west ridge (10a S).
Scramble off to the east (you may want to keep the rope on for a move or two).
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