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Potato Chip Flake 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 17, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Climber on Potato Chip Flake. Photo by Jessica Tod...

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Description 

The first pitch is 5.9, with a bit of wide crack. The 2nd pitch is 5.9 to me but the book says 10a.
Watch out where you place pro at
the "Potato chip flake" and don't touch or stand on the right end of it, very shaky! You can protect below it with fat finger cams and undercling the flake to reach the top and I managed to find one place for a #3, but a #4 would be good for the top out left traverse.

Location 

3rd route up hill past the Warrior

Protection 

Standard rack to 4"
old rusty anchor at the top of pitch 1 is maybe from first exploration here in the 70's, also a metolius rap anchor here, not sure why because there is the same about 50' above and this route can easily be led in one pitch.
Good anchor at top of pitch 2 shared with West Crack.


Comments on Potato Chip Flake Add Comment
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By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
May 26, 2014

Great route, can be done in 1 long lead. Could use more traffic for cleaning. save a #4 for protecting the final traverse for the follower.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 27, 2014

I think we may have been the first on this for years. I did the first pitch a few years ago but it was fun to climb it all as one long pitch.

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