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Potash Bong Hit 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,653
Submitted By: Greg D on Feb 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (177)
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Potash approach

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.

    This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.

    Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.

    Location 

    This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.

    Protection 

    Camolots: single set from .5 to 4. Extra 1's and 2's for the hand crack.


    Photos of Potash Bong Hit Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of Static Cling.  Potash Bong Hit is t...
    BETA PHOTO: At the base of Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is t...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the offwidth
    Almost to the offwidth
    Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on the route
    Higher on the route
    Rock Climbing Photo: exiting the crack was the crux for me. There is an...
    exiting the crack was the crux for me. There is an...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tim H at the top of Potash Bong Hit (below  and le...
    Tim H at the top of Potash Bong Hit (below and le...
    Rock Climbing Photo: finishing the splitter hand crack and into the fun...
    finishing the splitter hand crack and into the fun...
    Rock Climbing Photo: starting up the splitter hand crack 15 from the gr...
    starting up the splitter hand crack 15 from the gr...

    Comments on Potash Bong Hit Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Mar 15, 2008

    A new variation exist, put up in 07. After climbing the hand crack, head out left past some bolts to anchors. See description of Good, The Bad and the Potash 11b/c.
    By Petsfed
    From: Laramie, WY
    Mar 23, 2008

    The upper section is deeply frightening to climb, but seems solid enough. The hand crack that makes up the first half of the climb is really good.
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Jan 30, 2009

    I have noticed three people have suggested this route is harder than 9. I think this route may be a bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience. But all in all I think this route is no harder than Flakes of Wrath, Bad Moki Roof or Eyes of Falina, all 9's. So, I believe the 9 rating is fair for this area.
    By BenCooper
    Aug 13, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Greg D -
    Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki.
    By Tyson Waldron
    From: Reno, NV
    Nov 22, 2013

    This is a classic line.

    The only draw back (which is really a plus for wusses like me) is that it sets you up perfectly for a TR preview of the 4 star .11 line right next to it, dashing any hopes of an OS attempt.

    But don't fret, red points are cool too.
    By Victor Carvalho
    From: Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
    Sep 6, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    I've climbed yesterday and the line is pretty nice. The first half is the best part of it. The second half appears to be a little dangerous once the crack is too thin. So do not fall in the upper part.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Blast out across the top. Don't even think about your gear, cause you aren't going to fall out unless you let go.
    By Carla R
    From: San Jose, CA
    Dec 30, 2016

    Fun climb! Nice sustained hand crack, and fun offwidth near the top. I have small hands and felt this is a solid 5.9, maybe with one 5.9+ move for me.

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