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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Above the first crux. Only a short segment of the ...


This is a short but sweet line on the right side of the crag. As with the other lines here, this one needs to clean up a tad, but it's quality!

[Beta Warning...Don't read below if you're an onsight stickler.]

Begin at a medium pine tree next to the cliff. Make easy moves up into the crack and place some pro. Now make thinner moves right, following the crack, to a marginal rest and some good gear.

Now tackle the thin crack and hollow flake, placing passive gear only, for a couple moves up to a detached (but solid) flake. This lower half is exciting, the mental crux of the route. Surmount the flake and establish yourself on some small but good feet and clip the bolt. The crack moves are over. Make the crux move and finish at the anchor. Too fun!


This is the rightmost line on the crag. It has a bolted anchor. A single bolt is visible from the base.


Standard rack with emphasis on small nuts/RPs. No need for anything bigger than a #0.75 Camalot, if that.

There is a bolt at the 10b technical crux, but the mental crux, and the PG-13 rating, come from the first part of the route: A solid 5.9 thin crack then flake that is hollow and at times detached.

Placing RPs in this crack was exciting, but the placements are good...assuming the flake doesn't fail. Recommend using mostly passive pro.

Photos of Post-Op Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower crux is troublesome for thick-finger cli...
The lower crux is troublesome for thick-finger cli...

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By Kevin Wieczorek
Aug 30, 2012

Very fun route. I would think most people would be happier if they doubled up on RPs and small cams. The slab crux section felt hard for 10b, especially when compared to Ionic Column which is rated 10c. The bolt protects the crux very well, but true to the style of most of the routes in the area, you are expected to place gear anywhere it's available, including small gear.
By Jim Clarke
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Cool and "heady" route. Sure didn't seem 10b! A lot of harder rated St. Vrain slab routes seem a lot easier, though I suppose it's only two moves (10c/d?). Couldn't reach the bolt from a good feet rest, had to step up/mantle on small somewhat sketchy feet. Barely get established, clip then move quickly on some really small crimps, slap a sloper, and reach quickly for a good hold higher up…fun stuff.

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