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Possum Kingdom  

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 29, 2014

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The late great Steve Garvey on Possum Kingdom, Sno...

Description 

This route is the ornery brother of Mr. Bill. Climb good chicken heads using a crack to the left with small gear and a few good finger locks. Be prepared to sling some knobs!

Location 

This route begins just up and around the corner of buttress Mr. Bill is on. In begins to the right of a nasty alder tangle on a big flake then traverses left over the biggest chicken heads in the world to a a bolt over a small roof. There is some dialogue about the beginning of this route. The right start may be a variation. The direct line begins on the left of the alders and climbs the crack direct skipping the bolt on the right (which may belong to a different climb) The grades for either line remain the same, and both should be considered serious leads, with very real potential for injury in a fall.

Protection 

Gear: very small to .5 inches, heavy on very small gear, I'd bring your brassies and a good head. There is 1 1/4 inch bolt for the right hand variation, it might hold body weight, but it might not. Slings for chicken heads. Either climb up over the grass for a two bolt anchor, or traverse left to the anchor shared with Mr. Bill.


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By coldclimb
From: Wasilla, AK
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Gave this a shot on lead yesterday and I found it almost impossible to protect safely. I also followed the crack up as Gray's guide tells it, and never traversed left or clipped any bolts. Do you know for sure that's where this route goes?
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 31, 2014

Starting on the right of the Alder made more sense to me, there is a bolt there that is only a foot or two right of the crack. Climbing the crack requires small gear and big balls. Brassies would be my pro of choice.
By coldclimb
From: Wasilla, AK
Aug 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Yeah I saw that bolt, but it made sense that that bolt led to the crack up and RIGHT of it, which in turn leads straight to another bolt on a high right face with chickenheads, which in turn is right under the anchor at the top end of the ledge. I have no other info on that route though.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Aug 3, 2014

There is the other to the right, I've climbed the face between the crack right and the other route (#10 in Kelsey's guide) at a fairly stiff grade. I felt the bolt was in line with a fairly direct line that moved up into the thin crack that is hard to protect. I just REALLY hate alders and didn't like the belay down there by Mr. Bill.
By coldclimb
From: Wasilla, AK
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Gotcha. We did some gardening and uncovered a pretty decent belay ledge left of the alder, but the trail is still a bit bad.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Mar 25, 2015

where ever you choose start this is a fun little Hatcher route! Looking forward to the season!
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 24, 2015

So it may be that the debate about the right hand bolt has been solved. In the photo Roger posted of Steve Garvey on route, he has the bolt clipped!

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