REI Community
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
County Lockup T 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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This climb starts on the left-facing crack, right of Tax Evasion. After the left-facer jogs right, it climbs the thin crack in the face to the tree or higher. The book calls it a 5.7?, I felt more like a 5.6. Not too much excitement on the route, as it climbs like a face climb with crack protection.


There are slings around a horn up top. Gear on the route is a standard rack. Either bring some medium to small cams or be good at nutcraft, as the crack tends to be parallel.

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By Lee Gitlin
Aug 15, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nothing much to rave about here. Lots of places to rest or stem. 5.7 seems too generous. 5.6 is probably more accurate, but do yourself a favor and go climb schoolroom instead. Don't make the scramble up to Penetentiary for this route.

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