|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||1965 Dick Williams and Dave Craft|
|Submitted By:||Dana Marie on Jul 6, 2009|
|A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Positively 4th Street||Add Comment|
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By SP Boston
From: Watertown, MA
Sep 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climbed this with HS on Labor Day weekend, 2013. Hopefully this beta can be of use to the next adventurers to this neck of the woods.
First, this was not three stars in our opinion. It deserves two stars, but probably not three. Why? For several reasons: 1) it is pretty overgrown and bushy as well as a bit dirty and dusty at points, and 2) while there are some classic moves on the route, and the views are nice from the second pitch, it lacks the consistency and exposure of routes like High E and Madame G's.
Pitch one: At the first ceiling, the guidebooks talk about an exit left option as your fingers are holding a horizontal crack on the left side of the right facing corner, in what is a small pre-ceiling. We examined that option and while the actual transition onto the face on the left looks feasible (immediate protection during and upon the transition), the face looks like a steep slab without any obvious further protection or holds. While some speak of it being 5.4, we didn't like the looks of it and opted for the traditional route.
At this point, you are about 25 or 30 feet from the belayer below you. Look up to a ceiling that traverses rightward, and shrinks as it goes. Traverse right. You should be fully 15 or 20 feet below the ceiling. Follow a good hand crack, with sparse feet, in an airy, interesting solid 5.6 traverse, about 20 feet. Then push upward towards the modest (18 inch at that point) ceiling.
Overcome the ceiling with relatively easy moves, and then do a very balancing semi-mantle to overcome the very top of the bulge/ceiling onto a slab. Limited hands make this a little interesting for the leader. Traverse up and left to an obvious belay station. Total length is on the short side, maybe 70 feet.
Overall a very enjoyable adventure that had more of a quiet, back-country feel to it.