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Shambala
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If It's Free It's For Me S 
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Positions Available 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1994
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 18, 2001

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Description 

To the right of the main wall hosting If It's Free, is a blunt arete/face in rather blackish rock, this is unusual since most of the stone up here is red. Two easy clips lead into the middle of this ultra-technical friction route. Don't be fooled; just because most routes here are largely straightforward, Positions really is 5.12, and really is tricky. I tried to fire straight through the friction and flailed miserably. Whether or not it was intended, the right edge of the face kicks up just enough purchase for one hand to pull through the friction sequence, but it is still 5.12 climbing. What saves it from being really difficult, is the presence of a good horizontal system above the fifth clip, and this minimizes the amount of sketchy foot work. This is not powerful climbing, however, it is technical and very dependent on obtaining good frictional footwork. I thought that Positions Available was a blast.

Protection 

Take six draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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