REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard's Tears T 
Great White S 
Humboldt Current S 
Lost At Sea S 
Mermaid, The S 
Poseidon's Fury S 
Pulling Teeth S 
Redwood Burl S 
Ride The Woody S 
Scared Straight S 
Scurvy S 
Shipwreck (aka Shitwreck) S 
Shrapnel S 

Poseidon's Fury 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ethan Pringle
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Lurker on May 9, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Steep arete to face on the far left side of the main wall. The crux comes about halfway up, transitioning onto the face.

Location 

Furthest left route on the Main Wall, just before a steep dropoff to the ocean.

Protection 

~12 bolts, rap anchors.


Comments on Poseidon's Fury Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 10, 2017

Yeah, you all think that "steep dropoff to the ocean" deserves a rap anchor to make it easier to get to work on those routes gracing the north wall? Aren't there some good lines there? Pretty lines for the picking, if my memory serves me correctly... post-rapping, starting down low there, on the other side of the arête, might be the way to enjoy the edge of the rock to the top?
By Sic Nabo
Jul 30, 2017
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Very cool position! Manages to feel exposed while you're still on the ground reaching for start holds :D

Some safety-related beta: Taylor Morrow, one of the developers of this route, advised pre-hanging both a quickdraw and a long sling from the third draw so you can clip earlier, as there is a potential for a bad fall if you blow it with only the second bolt clipped and the rock quality is not amazing in that section. I used a double length sling for this and it worked well, but a single might be fine if not better. There are plans to move/add bolts to address this eventually, but for now I think this is a necessary procedure.

Also, I'd say it's mandatory to pre-clip the rope on the first and maybe even second draw.

Yes, a lot of stick clip shenanigans are required to do this route safely, but it's a legitimately good route and needs some traffic + lovin'.

Lastly, does anyone know where the crag stick-clip went?! It's not in the usual hiding spot...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About