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The Starcastle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Citadel, The S,TR 
Elliptical Seasons S 
Forces S 
Fountains of Light S 
Lady Of The Lake S 
Pig's Nose S 
Portraits S 
Reel to Real T 
Silver Winds T 
To The Fire Wind T 
Warping The Gale S 

Portraits 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001

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Description 

Portraits stands two routes downhill from Lady of the Lake and on the next most distinct turret. You pass another good roof problem on the way. Use the fixed rope to scramble down. Portraits is the right of two routes on this turret. It can be done by entering from the left at 5.12b, but this seems improbable, and I have found the right hand start at 5.11d to make more sense. My guess is that most climbers will enter from the right hand start. Either way converges at the first bolt. A series of seams and overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux move 30 feet from the anchor. Some good holds lie rather far to the right, so if the going gets thin, look around the corner. Enough said. Great route and worth three stars for continuity and quality.

Protection 

QDs only. Just about 90 feet, a bit less perhaps, but a dozen QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top is all you need.


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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 26, 2016

FA - Tod Anderson, not any sort of "crew" although Richard and others may have helped.