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4. Shadow Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbican TR 
Cleft Bastion TR 
East Bastion TR 
Keep, The T,TR 
Leaking Fissure TR 
Moat, The T,TR 
Portcullis TR 

Portcullis 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek 2015
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portc...

Description 

Every move is thoughtful. Interesting face climbing.

Up the face (without using holds from the Slime Wall route), then trend left to alongside of the alcove under the obvious roof. Up to the right side of the roof and exit right.

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Left (west) of the Shadow Castle face, the (usually dryer) light section which is between the (usually damp) West Castle Tower corner and the (usually wet) Slime Wall section.

Protection 

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.


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