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The Arena (aka Contender Wall)
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Pornucopia T,S 
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Pornucopia 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Team Sofa King Diesel
New Route: Yes
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 16, 2011  with updates from Mark E Dixon

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Get your porn on...route moves left above block/le...

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  • Description 

    Pornucopia climbs the blank pane of rock between Contender Direct and Contender, joining both climbs for the upper face to the anchor. It has three new bolts of climbing and links into Contender for your fourth clip.

    Pull on and move to a good rail, clip, bust into thin holds and stretch high for the second clip and move into the biz. A flat hold out right lets you clip the third bolt, then power up on better edges as you join Contender. I clipped the bolt on Contender as my fourth clip, then moved left where you can put a good Metolius black or red in a horizontal then unclip the bolt. Bust up on layback jugs, reel left along the rail and then climb the last two bolts of the Contender routes to finish on a semi-loose ledge with a relic Leeper-hanger anchor.

    This is good, thin, old-school face climbing. Bring a pair of Megas and lycra tights. Shade after 4 p.m., best on cold days.

    Location 

    This goes up the middle of the Arena/Contender Wall.

    Protection 

    Five/six bolts plus Metolius black (#5) or red (#4).


    Photos of Pornucopia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Blank face, thin holds, good times...!
    Blank face, thin holds, good times...!

    Comments on Pornucopia Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike Alkaitis
    Sep 19, 2011

    This is a line in honor of Dale Goddard. Thin, fingery, and fun.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Apr 10, 2015

    Nice climb, would get steady traffic at a more popular crag.
    A little friable at the start, but the holds are solid through the crux. Seriously thin feet!
    I didn't finish beyond the 4th bolt - is that traverse section better than it looks?

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