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Poquito Bandito 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J.Snyder
New Route: Yes
Season: AM full sun, PM shade
Page Views: 1,091
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Dec 30, 2013

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Poquito Bandito


Poquito Bandito is a aesthetic and steep mixed route that sits in the center sun-vortex of Oak Creek Spire's South Face. Reminiscent of Indian Creek with trademark characteristics of Sedona, this short but fierce pitch will try and steal the send.

Start up jumbled terrain, clean your shoes and start up steep fingers to a short rest. Fire the tips boulder problem to a ledge. Switch gears and power tech-mantle your way through 3 bolts to the anchor.

Please be courteous to dry rock and the current location of requisite features...


Approach as you would for Oak Creek Spire. Poquito Bandito sits center of the sunny South Face above large boulders in a scree field. There is a faint trail that leads up the S.East slick rock ridge towards the original rappels of O.C.S.


Small Rack:
C4 #1
C4 .4 x 2
C4 .3 x 2
3 bolts
2 bolt anchor

Photos of Poquito Bandito Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Poquito Bandito Photos:
Poquito Bandito Photos:
Rock Climbing Photo: J.Snyder on FA of Poquito Bandito
J.Snyder on FA of Poquito Bandito
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle leading Poquito Bandito (11+); with Nick on b...
Kyle leading Poquito Bandito (11+); with Nick on b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chaco and the Bandit
Chaco and the Bandit
Rock Climbing Photo: Poquito Bandito
BETA PHOTO: Poquito Bandito
Rock Climbing Photo: Turtle Power
Turtle Power
Rock Climbing Photo: Uppers
Rock Climbing Photo: Through the boulder problem
Through the boulder problem
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep fingers
Steep fingers
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep tips
Steep tips

Comments on Poquito Bandito Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Feb 8, 2016

Fun route! Man, that tips section is really hard! Didn't get it clean - so can't officially rate it, but felt a lot harder than 11+!

Upper bolted section was rad too! Although the medium sized block right before moving over the to the 3rd bolt on the arete seemed a bit loose.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Feb 8, 2016

Awesome work! I agree depending on your tip size and your reach those moves are variable and can be a little nasty. The blocks jugs up top do have a bit of a wobble but were tested with my strongest of punches. Im sure Sedona will swallow them eventually and naturally when the entire tower falls Southward... so I suppose pull down not out!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 3, 2016

Laura said she dyno'd?! Dyno bonus points for sure
By Nick Schlichtman
From: Golden, CO
Feb 5, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Dyno beta for the win. That last tips jam just insecure/painful enough to prevent establishing my feet much higher. However, couldn't clean it up enough on my second go to stick it for a send. Fun route.

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