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Popular Science (Golden Flake) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, 1978
Page Views: 3,304
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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January yields "Scottish Conditions" at ...


Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top.


Left side of the left-most section of the Sun Wall. On the left side of the "amphitheater" that Misty is in.


fists to fingers, bolts and rings at the top

Photos of Popular Science (Golden Flake) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: TR is on Popular Science, leader is on Ale 81, San...
TR is on Popular Science, leader is on Ale 81, San...

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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 2, 2012

Not recommended for the 5.9 leader. The last few moves to the anchors requires you to place a piece of gear from a near horizontal position. This I believe would be way too strenuous for someone new at the grade. A fall from below the anchor could result in a ledge fall or a wicked pendulum.
By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Jan 21, 2013

Protect as high as you can reach from the last good stance above the ledge (hint...stem up another few feet). Clip short then run for the top. Avoids the last placement from a terrible position and just might keep you off the ledge if you don't get the anchors clipped. A large stopper works well for this. Top out for full value.
By Michael Dom
Jan 18, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good warm up. Bring a 2, .75, 2 .5's, and a tcu red c3 or blue metolius for the top. Getting on to the face for the hand jam move feels heady but isn't too bad.

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