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(o) Right of the Escalator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axe of God T 
B.S. Arch T 
Breeze, The T 
Bullocks T 
Flatman Chimney T 
Free Lance T 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Pie T 
Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

Poppycock Arch 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: J Smith on May 9, 2010

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Description 

Traverse left under the arch/roof by underclinging a narrowing finger crack with smears and edges for the feet. Surmount the overhang at its end and climb the easier face up and left to belay at a tree with rappel slings. Listed as a TR in the guide, this can easily be led on gear.

Location 

Start at the same spot as for Bullocks, just left of the Flatman Chimney.

Protection 

thin cams and nuts for the traverse, a few medium size pieces for the face above


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By dnaiscool
Aug 12, 2014

This is a terrific TR to toss in before pulling your cord from the rap off the other area climbs. There is a mammoth jug right at the end...so keep that in mind as you shuffle your tips across this .10d classic undercling. The pro is #2 TCU size and smaller, and it is a bit tricky to get in while hoisting the undercling moves...more fun as a TR....and I'd give it 2 1/2 stars for what it is: sweet long undercling that begs for the TR, because it's just darn convenient!

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