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Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 
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Raked over the Coles T 
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Pope's Crack, Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, February 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,602
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 25, 2010

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Jared Vagy on the direct finish.


An exciting finish that makes a classic route even more classic.

Climb the crack straight up to the big roof, then climb out the right side of the roof past a fixed pin and a bolt. At the lip of the roof, reach right to a good hold. Once you're over the roof, it's 30 feet of class 4 slab to the top.

The overhang is well protected and much easier than it looks!


Pro to 3 inches.

Photos of Pope's Crack, Direct Finish Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody Dolnick on the Direct finish to Pope's Crack.
Cody Dolnick on the Direct finish to Pope's Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
BETA PHOTO: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
Rock Climbing Photo: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
BETA PHOTO: Pope's Crack, Direct Finish

Comments on Pope's Crack, Direct Finish Add Comment
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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Feb 28, 2010

Whoa, I did regular Pope's Crack probably only days after you guys put this up. When I got to the traverse I looked up and saw a pin and bolt wondered "where does that go?" Had I known it was only .10a I would have gone for it. Good job.
By Will Conley
Nov 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I did this this weekend (2010-11-27), and I thought it was really fun. I hadn't heard about it, but we met some guys at the base of the route who had read about it here. I agree with Bob's assessment that the roof is well protected and not as hard as it looks. The bolt is in the perfect place: it's easy to reach from below, and it's at your waist when you're pulling the crux. Kudos Bob. The crux might be a little reachy, though. My climbing partner is 5'5", and she had a little difficulty reaching the good hold out right. A few guys who did it after us had a little trouble also.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 9, 2011

Far better than the traditional finish, this limits ropedrag and I feel is more aesthetic. The roof looks quite improbable, but the rating is right on.
Descent Beta: Belay in the crack above a yucca off of cams, then scramble (3rd Class) to the rap anchors above British Airways, climbers right of Pope's.
By Richard Shore
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A beautiful finish and a total change in character from the rest of Pope's Crack. I thought the moves over the roof to be kinda stout on OK holds. My shorter partner (5'4"?) really struggled making the reach to the slopey jug at the lip.
By Phil Esra
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

yup, reachy at 5'6". safe and fun--makes the old finish obsolete. might not be as hard as it looks, but... hard enough.
By dave wave
Nov 18, 2013

Slipped off the crux on this yesterday...

Didn't know about the good hold till after i had put my foot in my face to mantel the roof...went to bump for that hold and took a good fall down to the slab below.

I was following on the route, as i fell and swung out left my rope dragged across the lip of the roof...when i looked up after the fall i realized the sheath on my rope had been completely torn open(i could see the white core stands)and i only weigh 140. So, at that point I traversed out left and climbed the original finish.

  • I would recommend the leader place a cam in the crack a few feet over the roof as a directional(might minimize the swing).

  • Just a heads up for everyone
By tanner jones
Feb 9, 2014

so good. easy to clip the pin. underclings and crimps help you make the bolt clip. great sloper above the bolt, good dish for your right foot, keep reaching for the jug up and right. the business is just keeping your head in the game. airy exposure and a sporty finish to top off a great crack... can't ask for much more.
By Cron
From: Barrington, NH
Jan 24, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is the only way to do Pope's. I backed up the pin w/ a small cam in the finger undercling but getting to the bolt is fairly secure w/ good edging. I'm 6'2" and found pulling the bulge quite easy reaching around and finding a crimp/jug far out right. Used cams 0.5 to 1" for the gear anchor up top.
By Alex Shainman
Feb 11, 2016

Mega classic finish for Pope's Crack BUT that good right hold you reach for over the roof unfortunately ain't gonna last much longer. Climbed it a few days ago. That hold flexes quite a bit. Major bummer :-(
By Tradiban
May 4, 2016

Crux hold is no more flexy than anything else in JT.

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