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Pop Bottle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris
Page Views: 7,237
Submitted By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Mar 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (182)
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An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. The entire first pitch is easily and well protected. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left down and across exposed low angle slabs at this point if you choose to do so.

The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. It’s not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.


The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)


Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch

Photos of Pop Bottle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pop Bottle, The Route
BETA PHOTO: Pop Bottle, The Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Catching the sunset from the top.
Catching the sunset from the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the bottomm
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the bottomm
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on the first pitch of Pop Bottle
Paul on the first pitch of Pop Bottle

Comments on Pop Bottle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Frank T
Mar 27, 2009

From the photo, it appears as if it's not truly vertical? Is this the case?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 21, 2009

Nowhere close to vertical.
By Bryan Duxbury
Sep 28, 2009

When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.

Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.

During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet higher and to the right. There are actually 3 bolts at the end of P2 - one old 1/4 incher and two newer bolts. I clipped all three because the hangers on newer bolts were loose, though the bolts themselves seemed bomber.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I think it's kind of a pile with one move on it.
From: Portlandia, OR
Sep 20, 2010

The bouldery start of the second pitch was really fun, pretty wild. The wideish crux on the first pitch pro's very well. You get a good look at Haystack's roof from this guy.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I don't want to be contrary to the person who listed the route, but if you feel the first pitch is the crux and the route is 5.7 I think you are maybe off route or something. The first pitch is a cruise. The moves around the bolt on P2 are the crux and go as a bouldery 5.6, which means hard for 5.6. Pretty good, and easiest route on the east face.
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The guidebook mentions not leaving your pack on the ground or else risk having a squirrel chew through your bag. Heed this warning even if you don't have food in your bag. Don't learn the hard way like we did!
By DARuss
Nov 2, 2015

I really like this climb. I am new to leading trad and found this route easy to set and also very interesting. Also, used almost my whole rack in the first 100 feet of the first pitch. Good thing the top part of the pitch is easy.
By splitclimber
Jul 25, 2016

felt the crux buldge on pitch 1 was 5.7.

I started the second pitch left of the bolt to not be exposed over the large corner and so your belayer can spot you. If you start out right on larger dikes a fall here onto your belayer would not have a good outcome.

I don't see the need for the bolted anchor (retro?) on pitch 2, just keep climbing and belay when the rope runs out.

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