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Poor Man's Wingate T 

Poor Man's Wingate 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Sep 9, 2013

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GB wearing EBs and placing a wire on P.1, July 22,...

Description 

On July 22, 1977, Claire Carren and I climbed the longest, most obvious, clean dihedral on the whole cliff band. On the first pitch, difficult, wide stems lead to an overhang, over which you must reach high for a good jam. Continue jamming and liebacking up the vertical corner to a ledge.

The second pitch climbs ledgy, blocky terrain to the rim. Beware of loose rock. While following, Claire pulled off a block bigger than she was, and she fell. The block hit the ground near our packs. We walked off to the east and down to the south, then northwest along the base to our packs.

Location 

This route features the longest, most obvious clean dihedral on the whole cliff band and is found about one third of the way from the right end of the cliff band. We approached from the highway, below. There may, or may not, be access issues.

Protection 

We had hexes and stoppers. I placed a #11 Hex at the overhang on p.1. Today, I would take SR through four inches — maybe doubles on two through three inches.


Photos of Poor Man's Wingate Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: GB at the crux, July 22, 1977.
GB at the crux, July 22, 1977.
Rock Climbing Photo: Claire Carren at the base of Poor Man's Wingate, J...
Claire Carren at the base of Poor Man's Wingate, J...

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