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Poor Man's P Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Moore, Ken Klis, Aaron Stireman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,041
Submitted By: j moore on Feb 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Poor Man's P-Crack & Variation? Where are the bolt...


Crux is getting over the "tooth" like feature, well protected move. A second pitch to rusty's cave last pIece is a shallow red camalot.
A 60 meter rope will get you all the way to the round with one rap.
Good route high up on the p wall with a cool view of downtown and the hikers trail. Top of pitch is a little slick and full of lichen (what isn't) but relatively easy.


p wall, take rusty's to the cave then continue up and slightly right. this is a continuation of rustys cave and can all be done in one pitch with a long rap.


quick draws and a red camalot or equivalent.

Photos of Poor Man's P Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Poor Man's P-Crack?
BETA PHOTO: Poor Man's P-Crack?

Comments on Poor Man's P Crack Add Comment
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By John Knight
Feb 23, 2013

This "new route" sounds like it might be Biemer's Trough or Energy Crisis. Download the old Gulyash Guide here - 1986 Pete Gulyash Guide - Off the Wall

I may be wrong.
By j moore
From: Santa Maria
Feb 25, 2013

John, definitely not energy crisis or biemers...climb it and check it out for yourself, it goes out and right out of the cave and the routes you are suggesting look like they go out and slightly left. in between energy crisis and biemers trough on the topo you provided via pete gulyash's guide.
By David Delkeskamp
Apr 29, 2013

Fun route, beautiful setting.
By John Knight
May 17, 2013

Can someone draw a topo for this route and the variation? I'm a bit confused as to where it goes. I would like to add it to the e-Guide. Check out the photos I posted and let me know if it looks right. Thanks, John
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Clovis, Ca
Nov 2, 2015

Fantastic Route. Super easy to find once at Rusty's anchors. Consider connecting Rusty's to this by either using a double sling on the anchors of rusty's and slings on just about everything else, or go straight up from the bolt on the poor mans cave variation-also using slings on everything.
By David Delkeskamp
Sep 18, 2016

(Another) fun variation: Start on first few moves of Spring Route, clip bolt #2 of Epidural, head over to Rusty's Cave route, and before clipping chains on Rusty's, head up Poor Man's P Crack. Yields a nice long "mixed" trad and sport pitch. A few cams to 1" and a #3.5 camalot will get you up to the PMPC bolts. Several slings. 70m rope gets you down.

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