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Poor Man's Cave (variation) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: David Delkeskamp on May 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Poor Man's P-Crack?

Description 

Climb the route Rusty's Cave but at the last bolt go straight up rather than traversing left to the anchor. A 3.5 camalot (or equivalent) can be placed here and leads you to the first bolt of Poor Mans P Crack and the rest of this (variation) route. Slings on most if not all pieces, including a few double slings, straighten out the line and reduce the drag. Lower off with a 70m; with a 60m you will most likely have to rap to the Rusty's Cave anchor. The charm of this climb is it's length and it's mix of trad and sport.

Protection 

Trad pro on rusty's and draws on PMPC. Extend everything with slings.


Comments on Poor Man's Cave (variation) Add Comment
Show which comments
By j moore
From: Santa Maria
Jun 1, 2013

this 'variation' was led by me days after i did the FA on Poor Mans P Crack. i didnt feel it was a different route because there is only one move different, where you go up instead of the cave anchors.
By David Delkeskamp
Sep 1, 2013

Hey j moore, good on you. Connecting Rusy's to poor mans p and bypassing the poor mans p anchors makes for a great pitch. Trad, sport, relatively long, great position, and you can lower off with a single 70m rope. I hope people find out about this line and climb it.
By Maxwell Kincaid
From: Sedona, Arizona
Aug 20, 2015

i wouldn't go so far as to say anyone in particular has claim to this FA. I know for certain many other climbers besides myself who have consequently climbed it to go directly for the peak in past years.

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