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Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) T 

Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Bracksieck and Mike Endicott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Jul 23, 2017

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Mike entering the squeeze.

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  • Description 

    Starting in the same place as Lest Thou Be Judged, I stepped up, then reached right, over the top of a Jamesia shrub. I shuffled right, around the shrub, and moved up the slightly overhanging rock, placing an insecure #8 Stopper then the smallest C3. I placed the two next-larger sizes of C3 in rapid succession. I made some long reaches in bulging terrain and shuffled right, around another Jamesia. I placed a #3 C4 and climbed past a loose, flat rock held by yet another Jamesia that lurked in the bottom of the chimney. I placed a #0.75 C4 in a pod in a thin crack to the right of the chimney and felt out the crack above.

    The crack was difficult and petered out in gathering lichen, well below the summit. I chose, instead, to retreat upward into the chimney, squeezing into its security, while trying to avoid skinning my bare knees. A red C3 was more comforting than kneepads. On the summit, I extended the Harebell chains, so we could toprope the thin crack that is right of the chimney.

    Is this really a first ascent? If Haas and Bubb previously claimed FAs of three other equally scroungy routes on this rock (and not this one), then this route must be an FA. No Jamesias were harmed in the exploration of this route; they merely had to endure our advances.

    Location 

    See above description. This climb encounters three bushes.

    Protection 

    See above description.


    Photos of Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike removes the first C3. I had removed the #3 an...
    Mike removes the first C3. I had removed the #3 an...

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