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Elderberry Buttress
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Bob Steed, Sarah Inwood, Marek Jakubowski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: bob steed on Aug 5, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Poomerang climbs steep rock on the backside of Eld...


Pitch 1: Climb up steep rock just left of a small bush on the wall and then traverse rightward to a pair of cracks. Pull a burly move (5.11+?) or simply aid on a small cam to get past this short steep section. Continue up and right on easier cracks to a belay on large ledge w/ 2 bolts. 5.9 C1
Pitch 2: Climb a steep hand crack past a very small tree then straight up a strenuous OW/ chimney. This short 5.10a section has a bad ledge fall potential unless you bring a 9" cam. Belay shortly after exiting the OW at a nice big ledge. 5.10a
Pitch 3: Climb up moderate cracks aiming for the big roof/corner above. Climb up and left in this corner on steep hand and fist jams to a squeeze chimney exit. Belay on a spacious ledge with 2 bolts. 5.10c.
Pitch 4: Up moderate cracks to a ledge with multiple short cracks (joins Elderberry Buttress Regular Route here). Choose a good crack and gain a low angle terrace. Belay at a slung block at the high end of this terrace near the East Face of Elderberry Buttress. 5.9 old school...
Continue up Regular Route or make 3 raps back to the base of the climb.


This route is found on the backside of Elderberry Buttress, around the corner from Doug Robinson's Regular Route. Approach: Hike to PSOM slab and follow that slab until a 4th class chimney/gully is encountered. Scramble up the chimney until the gully mellows out to steep hiking again. Walk up the gully another 200' past the end of the chimney then turn right and scramble 3rd class up the rocky and bushy slope. Aim for the large corner system near the right skyline with the prominent belay ledges. Start just left of the corner system below a small bush. Descent: Rap off of a slung block at the top of pitch 4, then rap from the 2-bolt anchor at top of pitch three, then rap from the 2-bolt anchor at top of pitch 1.
Two ropes are required. From the base hike/scramble with some (3rd class) towards the base of the Elderberry Buttress gully. Make one rappel at two bolts just above the main gully. (see description for Elderberry Buttress descent)
15 minutes of hiking from here gets you back to the road.


nuts, cams 2 ea to 2.5", 1 ea 3" and 4". Optional 9" cam for pitch 2

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By bob steed
Aug 5, 2013

Make sure you know which which way the wind is blowing if you have an "emergency".....

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