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Pool Skimmer 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Oct 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    Left of the route with black-painted hangers (Olympic Swimmer) is a short corner with what appears to be a large detached block on the left side of the corner (actually attached on top so not detached). Above this corner is a hard-to-spot tan painted bolt. Start up the corner (gear), with a cruxy pull left into the finger crack, up to the bolt, then wander up easy terrain (gear) to a second bolt at a shallow groove. Do another crux, and then climb easy terrain straight up to the bolted anchor.

    Per Jason Haas: this is distinct from the first pitch of The Reamer.

    Location 

    Left of the route with black-painted hangers (Olympic Swimmer) is a short corner with what appears to be a large detached block on the left side of the corner (actually attached on top so not detached). Above this corner is a hard-to-spot tan painted bolt. Start up the corner (gear).

    Protection 

    Pro to 3" and two retrobolts. Thin pro is required for the crux moving left out of the starting corner before you get up to the first bolt.


    Comments on Pool Skimmer Add Comment
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    By Jason Haas
    Nov 8, 2015

    15 years ago Craig Weinhold and I went up to Blob Rock for some wintertime cragging, and I unfortunately had forgotten my climbing shoes. Not wanting to squander a perfect t-shirt weather winter day, we made the best of it. We climbed this and the other two unknown routes that day (amongst all the Shimmer/Simmer routes). It's a shame they have been bolted.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 15, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top.
    By Greg Barnes
    Nov 16, 2015

    No offense, Tony, but maybe you're too strong of a climber to accurately rate this? There's no way those moves left out of the initial stemming dihedral into the finger crack are anywhere near 5.7, you'll get someone hurt rating it that way (particularly with the thin pro). Maybe you climbed up to the first bolt a different way?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 19, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree.
    I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong.
    Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well?
    By Greg Barnes
    Nov 20, 2015

    Your partner agreed as well? Huh, maybe I was having an off day, I'll try it again next time up there - you did start by stemming up the dihedral and moving left into the finger crack?

    And no, I'm not too strong, it's been years (and 2 kids) since I onsighted harder than 9+, and even at my very strongest 11- was my max. Never even toproped a single 11c face clean (followed a few cracks up to there). Kept pulling finger tendons on face, cracks are my friend....
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Nov 22, 2015
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This does seem easier than 5.9. I gave it 7+ because it may be slightly harder than its neighbor to the right.
    By Jason Haas
    Nov 29, 2015

    I would like to clear up some misinformation/history on this route. I re-climbed these routes twice (once last week and once the week before that). I also tracked down first ascentionists and asked several people that have done both The Reamer and Lichen to Like to clear this up. This pitch, as described here, is a new route known as Pool Skimmer. It does cross Lichen to Like at about the 60-65-foot mark, just below the second retrobolt (below the shallow groove). Lichen to Like keeps angling up and right along the crack system to gain the ledge at the higher of the two bolted anchors (where the still intact webbing nest is around the chockstone). We did not place any bolts on our ascent (lead or anchor). I am not a fan of retrobolts, and while I recognize I did not publish our route on mountainproject, I did give the information to both Rossiter and D’Antonio for their respective books. Unfortunately, the route never made it into D’Antonio’s books as Rossiter never updated his book (as of yet). In that regards, I do not blame the retrobolter for the bolts, but it would be nice to see them removed and patched.

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