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Above Anthrax
Select Route:
Climb with a View T 
Late Night Chalk Show S 
Ponyboy S 
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 
Riverboat Gambler S 
Solo Crack T,TR 
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 

Ponyboy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: computerskillclimbing. on Apr 10, 2010

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Rhoads clipping.

Description 

This is the left-hand route on the block that follows three bolts to rusty chains. The climb is quite dirty (usually), but a fun (and potentially exhilarating...) fight up a sloping arrette.

Location 

This is 15 feet to the left of Late Night Chalk Show. Either lower off of the chains or untie and walk down the back side.

Protection 

3 bolts.


Photos of Ponyboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan warms up on the 10 and fights with a layer ...
Nathan warms up on the 10 and fights with a layer ...

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By Tradoholic
Apr 19, 2010

I hated this thing. It started good enough and then seemed bolted too far right for behind the arete to be in play, which made it hard. I wound up grabbing the tree at the top just to get it over with.

Could also be a crazy hard crimp fest straight up the face.
By Andrew R.
From: Linden, VA
Jun 3, 2010

Yes Rhoads this route totally sucks.
By Tradoholic
Jun 29, 2010

Known as "Climb with a View" in Ryan's guidebook but the description is "A short gear lead using the face and thin crack system in an obtuse dihedral". The pic in the guide shoes this climb but A. Now it has bolts B. What dihedral? C. Guide says 5.8. WTF?
By Tradoholic
Jul 1, 2010

I think this is actually "Ponyboy" a 5.12- bolted by Ralph Schmidt. Mislabeled in Ryan's guidebook.

5.12- might explain the the sandbagging :)

Please change the name.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Hood, TX
Aug 1, 2010

Probably "quite dirty" and hard to clip bolts because people are not following the "intended line" on this 30 ft. block.
By Tradoholic
Aug 1, 2010

What is the intended line? BTW, this rating still needs to be changed.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Hood, TX
Aug 2, 2010

Crazy hard crimp fest straight up the face sounds about right...another Ralph classic...that dude is 6'4" with a positive ape index so your probably looking at 5.12 with 5.13 clips...
By MattH
Aug 8, 2016

This seemed to be bolted as a face climb. This would make the climb nails hard (12- would be a huge sandbag IMO). The face is wicked thin, especially between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, assuming you step right at the rest below the 2nd bolt and follow the edge system in the center of the wall. However, the rock quality on the face is quite solid. It would be interesting to see someone try the direct route. I tried for a bit at the end of the day but made little headway in reaching the 3rd bolt. There are plenty of hold options but they're all incredibly thin.