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Pony Express 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 21, 2013

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"Pony Express" is actually a 2 pitch line that requires you to climb the route "Miss Brown" to get to it. After climbing these 3 pitches you could rap back down, but it's much better to finish on the last pitch of "Crazy Horse" for a 4-Star link-up dubbed the "Crazy Brown Pony!"

I'll describe the whole line here, but you can also reference "Miss Brown" and "Crazy Horse" for some more beta.

Pitch 1: "Miss Brown" (11b/c). Locate the starting anchors on small ledge about 50 yards up and right from the belay area for "The Pod" and "Ring Finger". A bit of 4th class is required to get up there.

From the bolted belay bust a tricky boulder problem crux using a flexing flake to reach an overhanging arete feature. From here the rest of the climbing is brilliant 10+/11- on awesome brown stone. At the top move right 20 feet to the shared anchors for "Mind Bender" and "Pony Express".

Pitch 2:(10b) the first actual pitch of "Pony Express". Wild and exposed traverse straight right, and a little down, about 50-60 feet in length. Not very hard but heady, even though all 4 bolts are well placed. Pass below the anchors for "95 Degrees in the Shade"(obvious above you in the green lichen streak), and move around and under an big blocky arete to anchors in a small alcove. You are aiming for a right angling bolt line with intermittent crack/pod features that is fairly obvious.

Pitch 3(11d/12a): The money pitch. An amazing tour of the steep terrain in the middle of the wall. Very sustained with several cruxes (I thought it felt hard for the grade and the ACSD topo lists it at 11c...needs more ascents to get an accurate grade, so get on it!).

Begins by following a right traversing line of pods off the belay to a hand jam in a pod. Cop a bad rest in this pod, then move out right again to a bulge with positive holds and poor feet (crux). Once over the bulge, get a quick shake and then move right again into a right facing corner-crack. Stem and layback up the crack with a redpoint crux exiting the crack into a large undercling. From the undercling, clip the last bolt and move left to a hanging belay with 2 bolts...phew!

Pitch 4: 11a (the last pitch of "Crazy Horse"). This is one of the best single pitches I've done! Amazing rock, cool holds, and an amazing feature with unreal fun!

Move up off the belay into a shallow corner on positive but small holds. A few moves of stemming, turns into face climbing on immaculate white stone. You are gunning for an obvious white arete of rock about 40 feet above the belay. Once you hit the arete you'll be into some of the dreamiest climbing ever as you surmount the exposed arete on amazing rounded jugs with over 400 feet of air under your feet!


Starts on the route "Miss Brown" to reach the shared belay of "Mind Bender" and "Pony Express". Best to climb this as a link-up of "Miss Brown" + "Pony Express" + "Crazy Horse" for the "Crazy Brown Pony" variation and a 4-Pitch classic line to the top.


16 quickdraws. Bolted belays.

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